Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
So, Put on the headset and went to screw down the top bearing race, and discovered that the threading isn't far enough down the steering tube for my fork.
Where can I get about .25" of threading added to my steering tube? the guy at Wright Bros reccomended a place over on 15th in interbay, but couldn't remember the name.
Also, I noticed that the cups mount very loose in the headtube, but the headtube is not out of round. I saw online that Loctite 609 would be a potential fix - thoughts? Suggestions?
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tehschkott
Posted: Fri May 25, 2012 5:15 pm
daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
Recycled.
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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Fri May 25, 2012 6:15 pm
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
They can thread a headtube?
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jimmythefly
Posted: Fri May 25, 2012 7:44 pm
Joined: 10 Jan 2007Posts: 1491
You mean steerer, not head tube.
Wherever you get it done, you'll probably want to pick up .25" worth of spacers, too.
Are you positive you have the correct size headset?
30.2 is ISO standard, but JIS 30.0 is not uncommon (that's what my mid-90s Novara Randonee is).
Joined: 23 Sep 2008Posts: 740Location: North Beach
caustic meatloaf wrote:
Also, I noticed that the cups mount very loose in the headtube, but the headtube is not out of round. I saw online that Loctite 609 would be a potential fix - thoughts? Suggestions?
Without doing the homework, I pressed in cups that could already easily go in without grease, with grease. These cups were tight enough that I couldn't jostlerknock them w fingers in headtube. knocked while riding. Maybe amateur headset adjustment also made the knocking, but repressed after this with no lube and blue loctite, maybe did better adjustment, and it went away. All of this was with non-keyed headset spacers.
there are plenty of calipers that aren't precise enough for the following, and I don't know if this is the thing to do:
Barnett's manual wrote:
36.[ ]Measure I.D. of head tube in two or more
places and average result. Record here:
_____ + _____ = _____ ÷ 2 = ______mm.
37.[ ]Measure O.D. of new races to be pressed
into head tube and record here:
_______mm.
38.[ ]Subtract step 37 from step 36 and record
answer here: __________mm.
39.If step 38 is (check one):
[ ]>.0mm, find different headset.
[ ].0 to –.19mm, install race w/Loctite RC680.
[ ]–.20 to –.30mm, install headset as is.
[ ]<–.30mm, ream head tube (not always
possible) or get new headset.
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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Fri May 25, 2012 10:53 pm
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
jimmythefly wrote:
You mean steerer, not head tube.
Wherever you get it done, you'll probably want to pick up .25" worth of spacers, too.
Are you positive you have the correct size headset?
30.2 is ISO standard, but JIS 30.0 is not uncommon (that's what my mid-90s Novara Randonee is).
I did get a 30.2 headset, since I saw in the headtube that the inside wasn't uniform - i.e. there is a "step" in each end that coincides with about how long the insert would be for a headset race.
Still loose - like I can pull it out with my fingers loose.
Alec, my old fashioned vernier calipers are accurate to only .1mm, so I *might* be able to determine that spacing. If not, I'll just mosey over the bridge and have someone measure 'em.
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tehschkott
Posted: Sat May 26, 2012 1:34 am
daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
caustic meatloaf wrote:
They can thread a steerer tube?
YES
You people are goddamn word salad, all of you.
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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Sat May 26, 2012 2:25 pm
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
Cool. Tubes now threaded. Anyone have some loctite I could borrow?
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tehschkott
Posted: Sat May 26, 2012 2:38 pm
daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
GET OUT
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haulincolin
Posted: Sun May 27, 2012 1:27 pm
Joined: 25 Jul 2005Posts: 271Location: at work
I have to say that your frame might just be fucked if the cups are that loose. However, if you want to try anyway, you're welcome to stop by my shop and borrow some sleeve retainer (which is the stuff you want--not regular old loctite threadlocker).
Alex
Posted: Sun May 27, 2012 5:21 pm
Joined: 18 May 2006Posts: 3128Location: Roosevelt
caustic meatloaf wrote:
I did get a 30.2 headset, since I saw in the headtube that the inside wasn't uniform - i.e. there is a "step" in each end that coincides with about how long the insert would be for a headset race.
That is normal. That is the result of facing the headtube, which should be done on most frames (but some people don't bother).
caustic meatloaf wrote:
Still loose - like I can pull it out with my fingers loose.
Loctite makes a version for loose press fits that will help here. I've never used it personally (and it isn't something a normal hardware store stocks), but I've read of it being used successfully. Caroline's RB-T has a headset that could benefit from this if you pick some up.
caustic meatloaf wrote:
Alec, my old fashioned vernier calipers are accurate to only .1mm, so I *might* be able to determine that spacing. If not, I'll just mosey over the bridge and have someone measure 'em.
I'm surprised that they aren't more accurate, I have vernier metric calipers that go down to .02mm. However digital calipers are super cheap these days ($20 or less), so it might be worth an excuse to upgrade to a pair of those.
limpyweta
Posted: Sun May 27, 2012 8:27 pm
Joined: 23 Sep 2008Posts: 740Location: North Beach
Alex wrote:
I'm surprised that they aren't more accurate, I have vernier metric calipers that go down to .02mm.
By "plenty" I meant 2 in my experience using more than 1 set. One was a set of plastic dial calipers that were a whole millimeter off, measuring a 25.4mm handlebar, later determined with better quality digital calipers on the same spots of the handlebar. The other set was plastic verniers that made readings like this, and there was a third set of no name, no reference info, digital calipers that have never worked.
So, ya, measuring good quality parts made with known standard sizes can be useful.
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