From the Bike24 website:
Gigantic achievement. Never has the desire to light was so great.
Dynamo generated light penetrates into a new dimension - as wide, so far, so immaculate bright.
I just got one of these. What they say is true.
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jimmythefly
Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 10:25 pm
Joined: 10 Jan 2007Posts: 1491
karadactyl
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 8:39 pm
Joined: 06 Sep 2013Posts: 366
THREAD-SURRECTION!!
I want to build a front touring wheel with a dynamo hub. I figured I'd search the forum for previous discussion rather than start a new one. This is a lot to digest at the moment, but I'll get around to really reading it vs skimming.
Does anyone have any burning new info/experience to add? Also looking for a little info to start deciding on a hub. Anyone have experience with Sanyo H27 hub? I had a friend selling one (really low price as he got it wholesale) but I didn't bite and he may not even have it anymore. Should I really just cut out a few bar tabs a month and save up for the Schmidt?
joeball
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 10:31 pm
Joined: 24 Jul 2005Posts: 6037Location: Ether
What bike will this go on? Wheel size and type of brakes?
I'd advocate getting a moderately priced generator hub (~$100 or less) and a B&M head light for your first dynolight set up.
In particular I'd advocate for a shimano dyno hub. Some other .83ers have used the SP hubs but they run closer to $120 I think.
As far as headlights...sorry, they change so fast. The newest ones I have are B&M Cyo lights and they are atleast 2 generations old (but still are great)
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/b&m-hl.asp
karadactyl
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 10:50 pm
Joined: 06 Sep 2013Posts: 366
Thanks! Great info! I have heard good enough things about the Shimano hubs, but would also probably be willing to trade my future potential maybe first born for a better hub if it was really that much better.
I'm little, so I'll stick with 26" wheels for sure, and prob 32 hole because again, little, and even fully loaded probably wouldn't need more spokes. I do think I'll go disc though, because this winter having rim brakes made me realize how much I really preferred the discs. Definitely heard good things about the B&M lights.
tehschkott
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 10:55 pm
daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
SP hub
Luxos U lamp
Hson Plus archetype rim
I'll build it for you for free.
Call me.
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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 9:22 am
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
H plus son rims are filthy fresh.
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Andrew_Squirrel
Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 10:57 am
Joined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 2098Location: Greenwood
The best bang for the buck are the "Busch & Müller Lumotec IQ2 Premium Cyo" Headlights.
For some reason they make a bazillion versions of this light with small details changed.
Looks like the German website where I purchased mine from doesn't carry the specific one I prefer (1752QSNDi-04)
Any of them will work fine but some of the "nearfield" / daytime running light / automatic light sensor features will just be annoying to deal with.
caustic meatloaf
Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 2:07 pm
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
After the original creation in a June, it looks like this thread has been revived on January 20 something three years in a row. For some reason, I find that really interesting.
Anyway, on to a useful contribution to the thread, Peter White has an article on headlights comparing dynamo and non-dynamo ones with a bunch of pretty pictures.
I have found that Rivendell have a pretty decent price and the parts that are most often recommended although they don't carry the Secula which is made for drilling into a fender or putting on a seatpost (depending on the version you get) and is nice if you don't have a rear rack with the proper mount points on your bike or are likely to remove your rear rack.
axel
Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 8:22 am
Joined: 15 Feb 2013Posts: 1654Location: St Johns PDX
tehschkott wrote:
SP hub
Luxos U lamp
Hson Plus archetype rim
I'll build it for you for free.
Call me.
^ this guy knows what's up.
I've been riding a SP hub for several weeks now, paired with a Lumotec Eyc lamp. it's nice, and the Eyc is probably the least expensive lamp worth considering.
the Cyo is on the left, Eyc on the right.
_________________ fat rob.
karadactyl
Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 9:33 am
Joined: 06 Sep 2013Posts: 366
Extra helpful friends! The best. (George, I noticed the resurrection dates too, and thought it was... interesting).
I'm waiting for tax return time to asses my budget, but definitely gonna look into the SP hubs. Don't think I'll go with those rims because it looks like they only come in 700C.
I remember once seeing Peter White's exposition on lights and their beams, and it was very thorough but I wonder if he's updated it. The new advice from Squirel/Rob on lights is good. I'm not ridiculously concerned about weight but I do think a smaller light with a good output sounds better than a big one. Do they not all have sensors by now? I guess I don't see the point of using a light during the day, but also I guess safety?
Andrew_Squirrel
Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 9:55 am
Joined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 2098Location: Greenwood
axel wrote:
tehschkott wrote:
SP hub
Luxos U lamp
Hson Plus archetype rim
I'll build it for you for free.
Call me.
^ this guy knows what's up.
I've been riding a SP hub for several weeks now, paired with a Lumotec Eyc lamp. it's nice, and the Eyc is probably the least expensive lamp worth considering.
the Cyo is on the left, Eyc on the right.
Luxos on the left, Cyo is more round
Andrew_Squirrel
Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 10:02 am
Joined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 2098Location: Greenwood
karadactyl wrote:
I guess I don't see the point of using a light during the day, but also I guess safety?
Modern dynamos present almost zero drag even when a light is engaged, there is almost no reason to ever turn it off (I5 experess lanes in stealth mode, turning standlight off when you go into the grocery store so some friendly cyclist isn't frantically looking for your switch to preserve your "battery").
I'd suggest leaving it on all the time, it's one less thing to think about when jumping on/off the bike and having the additional safety measure of daytime running lights is a great idea, especially during the dark winter months and foggy/rainy days.
Andrew_Squirrel
Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 10:13 am
Joined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 2098Location: Greenwood
ba3bous wrote:
I have found that Rivendell have a pretty decent price and the parts that are most often recommended
I think Fred, Jimmy, Alex, Scott or Andre can confirm but I believe all lights sold by Rivendell need to come through Peter White first since he controls the US market on most of these products. This is two levels of unnecessary middle-salesmen. It is even worse to buy directly through Peter White, he requires you to call him and order over the phone.
Point 83 informed me that you can buy most of these from overseas sources for much, much cheaper prices, even including shipping. I've been buying most of mine from XXCycle.com since the shipping on one or two items is the lowest I've seen. Surprisingly, shipping doesn't take very long either.
rob
Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 10:42 am
Joined: 28 Jul 2007Posts: 1315Location: Columbia City
I have found that Rivendell have a pretty decent price and the parts that are most often recommended
I think Fred, Jimmy, Alex, Scott or Andre can confirm but I believe all lights sold by Rivendell need to come through Peter White first since he controls the US market on most of these products. This is two levels of unnecessary middle-salesmen. It is even worse to buy directly through Peter White, he requires you to call him and order over the phone.
Point 83 informed me that you can buy most of these from overseas sources for much, much cheaper prices, even including shipping. I've been buying most of mine from XXCycle.com since the shipping on one or two items is the lowest I've seen. Surprisingly, shipping doesn't take very long either.
When I built up my dyno lighting setup for my touring bike, I used Bike24.de extensively. It bypasses Peter White, they ship it straight from Germany to you by DHL (instead of from Germany to a warehouse, to Peter White to you via USPS). And they don't charge any tax (including VAT) since you're not a reseller. They had the full Supernova line including their SP-built hub, as well as a very good selection of other brands such as SON and B&M.
donavanm
Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 1:59 am
Joined: 14 Jun 2012Posts: 1342
Anyone have a couple meters of wiring I could get? Or recommendation on sourcing some before Thursday? Need to (finally) redo my dynamo before heading down to portland for the weekend.
ba3bous
Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 2:12 am
Joined: 24 Aug 2014Posts: 292Location: NYC
donavanm wrote:
Anyone have a couple meters of wiring I could get? Or recommendation on sourcing some before Thursday? Need to (finally) redo my dynamo before heading down to portland for the weekend.
I got two rolls of wiring to deal with all the redoing I potentially need if you want some.
It's fancy coaxial wire made for lavalier microphone leads, I convinced Rob Perks to buy a 100m spool so it was easier to get in short lengths, and now he's on his second spool of it
langston
Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 5:30 pm
Joined: 25 Jul 2005Posts: 5547Location: Columbia City
It's fancy coaxial wire made for lavalier microphone leads, I convinced Rob Perks to buy a 100m spool so it was easier to get in short lengths, and now he's on his second spool of it
I'm going to need some wiring too, I'm finalyl starting my own hub powered lighting adventures. Group buy? Anyone want to host a wiring party in a month or so?
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derrickito
Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 9:46 am
now with 50 percent more EVILJoined: 22 Jul 2005Posts: 10566
i have a fancy generator hub wheel that i built at the scott wheel building party a loooong time ago. i have a light that i think i got from fred cheap. i have no idea what wiring or connections i need. i really just haven't eyeballed it, it may need to just be crimped and taped on, or i may need wiring and a certain connection.
count me in for retardo light attachment party just so i set up some time to actually put that thing together.
caustic meatloaf
Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 10:40 am
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
I have that same dynamo, and felt pretty silly when Evil Mike showed me how to use the clip correctly for the wiring. Short answer - you do not need special tools to connect the wiring on that dynamo.
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Alex
Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 10:58 am
Joined: 18 May 2006Posts: 3128Location: Roosevelt
I can potentially host a wiring party in March. We'd probably have to spill outside, there is barely room for two bikes in my basement on stands.
Andrew_Squirrel
Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 11:55 am
Joined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 2098Location: Greenwood
I can also host one since I have a medium size garage and have the soldering, crimping, stripping, cutting tools + heatshrink gun with plenty of tubing.
derrickito
Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 12:17 pm
now with 50 percent more EVILJoined: 22 Jul 2005Posts: 10566
tell me where to go and when to be there, and i will be there with lots of beer to leave behind.
donavanm
Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 10:31 pm
Joined: 14 Jun 2012Posts: 1342
Andrew_Squirrel wrote:
I can also host one since I have a medium size garage and have the soldering, crimping, stripping, cutting tools + heatshrink gun with plenty of tubing.
Hmm.. you have a benchtop dc power supply, quality multimeter/scope, and tools for smt work? My light on dynamo light looks like it's kaput (suspect the lead from the head) and I wouldnt mind changing out the emitters to newer luxeons.
Andrew_Squirrel
Posted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 2:57 pm
Joined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 2098Location: Greenwood
Yeah, I'm open to having people over whenever works best. I should be around on Saturday most of the day.
Sunday will be too busy though.
Could also do it some evening during the week after 7pm.
Donovan, unfortunately I no longer have a DC bench supply at my house. Went kaput a few years back and never got a replacement. I could bring one home from work for a few days though.
Also have:
- Multimeter
- Analog O-scope
- Digital O-scope
- Stereoscopic microscope
- SMT rework gun in photo above
Bo Ttorff
Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 10:54 am
GO SEAHAWKS!! 12 for LYFEJoined: 20 Jul 2011Posts: 3092Location: King County
I'm looking at running my alfine hub as a disc setup any advice on compatible disc set up at a reasonable price?
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jimmythefly
Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 12:08 pm
Joined: 10 Jan 2007Posts: 1491
Not quite sure what you are asking.
Do you want to know what disc brake system works well with Alfine hubs?
What kind of bars and shifters do you need/want?
Bo Ttorff
Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 2:58 pm
GO SEAHAWKS!! 12 for LYFEJoined: 20 Jul 2011Posts: 3092Location: King County
The Alfine hub is the center lock style.
Cross style levers preferred
I'll be using my cinelli/mash bars
I know nothing about disc brakes, really just looking for direction.
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donavanm
Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 8:26 pm
Joined: 14 Jun 2012Posts: 1342
Bo Ttorff wrote:
The Alfine hub is the center lock style.
Cross style levers preferred
I'll be using my cinelli/mash bars
I know nothing about disc brakes, really just looking for direction.
The various rotors are interchangablish between manufacturers, assuming the same diameter. The main difference for disc brakes is hydraulic vs cable. For road hydraulic is still pretty new/$$$ from what Ive seen, so you probably want cable. On cable brakes there are two different lengths of cable pull/lever throw. Flat bar V Brake levers are "long" and road calipers are "standard". If you buy "road disk brakes" they'll come with the right pull/throw to use with standard road levers, which should include bar ends or an interrupter lever.
Personally I've always used the Avid BB5 or BB7. Theyre affordable and have been around forever. A lot of other manufacturers have products now, Im sure someone like fred could point you to the new hotness (TRP?).
jimmythefly
Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 8:58 am
Joined: 10 Jan 2007Posts: 1491
Because you want to use levers that pull a "road" amount of cable with each squeeze, you will want to use "road" disc calipers.
Shimano CX77
TRP Spyre
Avid BB7 Road
Whichever you go with, be sure you have a barrel adjuster somewhere in the system.
As for rotors: you can use pretty much whatever you want there. I have been using a centerlock adapter that lets me use 6-bolt rotors on my centerlock alfine hub with no issues.
Shimano's centerlock rotors are very nice, but not all rotors work with all brake calipers, because the big aluminum central part of the rotor can hit the brake pads in some combinations (like BB7 with older XTR rotors.)
Bo Ttorff
Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 10:30 am
GO SEAHAWKS!! 12 for LYFEJoined: 20 Jul 2011Posts: 3092Location: King County
Does the rotor size matter when selecting a caliper? Eg: 160mm vs. 140mm
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jimmythefly
Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 4:01 pm
Joined: 10 Jan 2007Posts: 1491
The caliper body itself will be the same. It's the adapter mount that fits between your frame and the caliper body that determines what size rotor you will run.
Be aware there is more than one frame mount standard. Typically you will see either "post-mount" or "I.S." (International standard).
This is IS mount:
This is post-mount:
Note above in the post-mount images one of the calipers has an adapter for a larger rotor, and in other images the caliper is directly mounted to the frame as the mount points are already set for whatever rotor size that is.
Also even though they might look the same, the front and rear are sometimes different.
So when shopping calipers you might want a "160mm front post" and "140mm rear IS" which would get you the caliper and adapter appropriated for your frame/fork set up.
But if you'v egot something fairly new you should double check this as I said above some frames for post-mount don't need any adapters (though you might still get them when you buy the calipers).
jimmythefly
Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 4:03 pm
Joined: 10 Jan 2007Posts: 1491
Oh, and if we're talking about a road frame especially, there will probably be a limit to how big of a rotor you can put on it before the rotor hits the frame tubes or fork leg.
What frame/fork are you working with? Probably easier than all this guessing.
Bo Ttorff
Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 4:10 pm
GO SEAHAWKS!! 12 for LYFEJoined: 20 Jul 2011Posts: 3092Location: King County
All of that information was very, very helpful.
My apologies to the purists who may be offended by the threadjack. I couldn't find a write up about disc brakes on the forum and don't remember one ever popping up in my 4 years with the club
_________________ -housed white guy
blasdelf
Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 10:55 pm
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Bo Ttorff wrote:
Cross style levers preferred
I'll be using my cinelli/mash bars
you'll be a dad bro, graduate from your sweet fixie residuals
get some flat/riser/swept/etc bars that take mountain grips so you can use real brakes, I've got plenty of fancy ones you can try out
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