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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 2:39 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Dec 2010 Posts: 1235537 Location: a hammy melange...

MurpleMan wrote:
Bo Ttorff wrote:
MurpleMan wrote:
Have you ever wondered if the sewer outside your home is combined or separated? Check out this map!

http://www.seattle.gov/util/groups/public/@spu/@usm/documents/webcontent/02_008214.pdf


Save it for Facebook bro, this is the Ask Joe thread.


Dear Joe,

What, exactly, is BroTorff's deal?

He really seems to love taking on the role of enforcer. Do you think he would be a good fit for the SPD? I hear they are looking to recruit more candidates that actually live in Seattle. Would it be a good thing or a bad thing if one of our members was cop? Now that Matthew is gone we might benefit from a new law-abidin' type to act as a spokesman/front when things get messy.

Also, the only thing better than an oxford comma is a semicolon.


Ultimately, Anarchy in the sense of no rules doesn't work, and Bro-Torff is the enforcer we deserve, not the one we need.

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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 2:39 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Dec 2010 Posts: 1235537 Location: a hammy melange...

Chip McShoulder wrote:
MurpleMan wrote:
Bo Ttorff wrote:
MurpleMan wrote:
Have you ever wondered if the sewer outside your home is combined or separated? Check out this map!

http://www.seattle.gov/util/groups/public/@spu/@usm/documents/webcontent/02_008214.pdf


Save it for Facebook bro, this is the Ask Joe thread.


Dear Joe,

What, exactly, is BroTorff's deal?

He really seems to love taking on the role of enforcer. Do you think he would be a good fit for the SPD? I hear they are looking to recruit more candidates that actually live in Seattle. Would it be a good thing or a bad thing if one of our members was cop? Now that Matthew is gone we might benefit from a new law-abidin' type to act as a spokesman/front when things get messy.

Also, the only thing better than an oxford comma is a semicolon.


Dear Joe,

When did .83 get so passive-aggressive? Is it because the TOS is down, and people don't know how to properly resolve beef?


That's one for .83 lawyer!

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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 2:43 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Dec 2010 Posts: 1235537 Location: a hammy melange...

J_Dada wrote:
Dear Joe,

Can you help explain the problems I'm having with my smartphone lately? Its an Android GS3 on the T-Mobile network.

When I have an 802.11 connection, calls and texts go through with no problem.

When I'm connected to the cellular network, phone displaying full bars, success rate with making calls or sending texts is approximately 1 out of 9, and people tell me that when they attempt to call me they're sent straight to voicemail. Attempts to connect to internet via 4g are mostly fruitless.

My phone has been beat up quite a bit, dropped, etc. There are multiple cracks in the screen. Is it possible that there is physical damage to the internal radio that picks up cell signal, but no damage to the radio for wifi? Or is it more likely that T-Mobile just has the worst network of any of the major carriers I've used?

I've never been happy with my cellular/4g coverage with this provider, but the past 3 weeks things have gone to pretty annoying to beyond maddening as I miss, and and unable to send or receive, important texts and calls. I'd like to believe this is not a carrier issue, since I like their true unlimited data plan, but unlimited data isn't much good when it rarely works. Should I switch carriers in 2 months when my contract is up?


I have to admit, I am leaning towards it being either a device or OS issue. I myself have a GS4, but on the Sprint network, and from time to time I seem to either end up receiving and/or sending texts out of sequence, or else I am dropping calls at strange times, or other weirdness. When I have 802.11 enabled, I get shitty download speeds, but when I turn it off my phone magically discovers LTE in the area. I'm with Sprint.

Personally, I think it's the phone. Sounds like you may be able to get an upgrade, I say check out one of the newer Android phones.

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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 2:44 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Dec 2010 Posts: 1235537 Location: a hammy melange...

fourfingersdown wrote:
Dear Joe,
Why are Seahawks fans some of the most annoying in all of sport, followed closely by Oakland Raiders fans and San Francisco Giants fans?


Much like people who recently come into a large amount of money start acting like rich pricks, new fans tend to be over the top with their fan-ness. Don't worry, once we get a couple more superb bowl rings under our belts, or dilute the rabit fan base with more successful teams, I'm sure it'll all die down.

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rob
Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 2:47 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 28 Jul 2007 Posts: 1315 Location: Columbia City

Dear Joe,

Why does
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?
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Bast
Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 3:46 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 05 Sep 2014 Posts: 123 Location: Seattle

caustic meatloaf wrote:


2)From a distance of about 20 feet away, begin snorting softly, and start walking purposefully to her, increasing speed until you are at a dead run

3)At PRECISELY 6.35 feet from where she is standing, come to a DEAD stop. by this time, you will have eye contact.


Dear Joe,

I mistook a dashing fellow to be a zombie in his attempts to attract me. Needless to say I now have brain stains on my seat and grey matter gumming up my gears. How do I determine prior to snogging/brain eating a male parties interest and prevent me from having an incredibly stinky ride home?


Sincerely,
Cherry Darling

PS-
Quote:
No pressure, and good luck!

Easy for you to say.

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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 4:47 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Dec 2010 Posts: 1235537 Location: a hammy melange...

Bast wrote:
caustic meatloaf wrote:


2)From a distance of about 20 feet away, begin snorting softly, and start walking purposefully to her, increasing speed until you are at a dead run

3)At PRECISELY 6.35 feet from where she is standing, come to a DEAD stop. by this time, you will have eye contact.


Dear Joe,

I mistook a dashing fellow to be a zombie in his attempts to attract me. Needless to say I now have brain stains on my seat and grey matter gumming up my gears. How do I determine prior to snogging/brain eating a male parties interest and prevent me from having an incredibly stinky ride home?


Sincerely,
Cherry Darling

PS-
Quote:
No pressure, and good luck!

Easy for you to say.


Ultimately, if you mistook him for a zombie and were forced to kill him, we was not performing the mating ritual correctly and rightly SHOULD have been killed. Honestly, I'm surprised he wasn't torn to shreds by all nearby males when he made the first critical error.

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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 4:48 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Dec 2010 Posts: 1235537 Location: a hammy melange...

rob wrote:
Dear Joe,

Why does
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?


Not sure, but I think that maybe it has to do with something on line 54 and line 16.

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axel
Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 5:11 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 15 Feb 2013 Posts: 1654 Location: St Johns PDX

caustic meatloaf wrote:
rob wrote:
Dear Joe,

ERROR BARF

?


Not sure, but I think that maybe it has to do with something on line 54 and line 16.


Dear Joe,

have you tried filing a support ticket?

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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 6:09 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Dec 2010 Posts: 1235537 Location: a hammy melange...


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TorreyK
Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 7:02 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 1116 Location: White Center/Burien

Dear Joe,

I have an excess of bicycle shift and brake cables, just barely too short to use, too nice to recycle. Are there any fun cable oriented crafts that you would recommend?

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limpyweta
Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 10:05 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 23 Sep 2008 Posts: 740 Location: North Beach

I dunno how food safe this is, but maybe suspending a dutch oven or something over a fire/parabolic solar cooker beam. some knots still work with bike cables

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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 9:54 am Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Dec 2010 Posts: 1235537 Location: a hammy melange...

You could easily convert them to a bicycle hook by forming a knot with loop on one end, and tying a hoot to the other, this allowing you to hang a bicycle on a rafter or beam overhead instead of on a wall.

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fourfingersdown
Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 1:48 pm Reply with quote
r.w. = rainn wilson! Joined: 21 Mar 2008 Posts: 1078 Location: NOT FUCKING ENGLAND

Dear Joe,

Our 2001 Chevy Blazer has pushed us to the end of our wits with stupid necessary repairs. In August we spent $1500 replacing tires, front brakes, and wheel bearings. Now the heater core has taken a shit and the $1100-$1300 repair cost has made us decide that repairing Big Red isn't really an option. We were hoping that Big Red would make it another year until Christine is done with grad school, however that option seems to be exhausted. Ideally we'd prefer a life where a car isn't a necessity, but my 60 mile round trip daily commute makes that an impossibility. That said, we are in the market for a used car. Our budget is roughly $18000. We need a car with 4wd, or AWD, a hatchback, and a trailer hitch. Something that can carry our bikes, kayaks, snowboards, etc. (not all at the same time, of course.) We're looking at Subarus, Toyota RAV4's, (gross) and Honda CRV's (grosser). How do you suggest we move forward on this topic, do we buy from a dealer, or private party? Are there any other makes and models you'd suggest? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Best,

Ryan

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Bo Ttorff
Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 2:24 pm Reply with quote
GO SEAHAWKS!! 12 for LYFE Joined: 20 Jul 2011 Posts: 3092 Location: King County

Dear Joe,

I am in the market for a breast pump. My insurance has informed me that as long as I remain "in network" that all costs will be taken care of. 1. What does it mean to remain "in network"? 2. What brands/models of breast pumps to you suggest?

Thanks,

Jake

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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 3:12 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Dec 2010 Posts: 1235537 Location: a hammy melange...

fourfingersdown wrote:
Dear Joe,

Our 2001 Chevy Blazer has pushed us to the end of our wits with stupid necessary repairs. In August we spent $1500 replacing tires, front brakes, and wheel bearings. Now the heater core has taken a shit and the $1100-$1300 repair cost has made us decide that repairing Big Red isn't really an option. We were hoping that Big Red would make it another year until Christine is done with grad school, however that option seems to be exhausted. Ideally we'd prefer a life where a car isn't a necessity, but my 60 mile round trip daily commute makes that an impossibility. That said, we are in the market for a used car. Our budget is roughly $18000. We need a car with 4wd, or AWD, a hatchback, and a trailer hitch. Something that can carry our bikes, kayaks, snowboards, etc. (not all at the same time, of course.) We're looking at Subarus, Toyota RAV4's, (gross) and Honda CRV's (grosser). How do you suggest we move forward on this topic, do we buy from a dealer, or private party? Are there any other makes and models you'd suggest? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Best,

Ryan


What about the Ford Aerostar? Surprisingly, it fits all your requirements, in addition to being a very easy to maintain vehicle that gets good mileage, has AWD and may even have a trailer hitch to boot, and it also a very inexpensive vehicle to buy, since they're all about 10+ years old.


But seriously, joining the Seattle Subaru Fleet is, I think, in your near future. Depending on the model, They're relatively inexpensive to maintain, highly affordable, have AWD, good mileage, and you can get that comforting feeling of being just like everyone else.

Stay away from the Forrester, it's a POS. The WRX is a bit too ricerockety, The tribeca is too WASPY, so that narrows it down to the outback, a tried-and-true Seattle favorite, or the legacy, which is also pretty good actually.

As the MSRP of a 2014 Legacy is $22K, and the MSRP of a 2014 outback is even higher, I think used is the way to go. If possible say away from dealers when buying used cars - they buy em cheap, it's a fuckload of hassle, and they put in as little as possible to get them into saleable condition.

Go the private sale route and make sure to ask any seller if you can have a trusted mechainic give it the onceover. Don't get a vehicle olde than 10 years, or with more than 150,000 miles on the odo.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/cto/4728844420.html

http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/4755465471.html

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/4758411732.html

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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 3:17 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Dec 2010 Posts: 1235537 Location: a hammy melange...

Bo Ttorff wrote:
Dear Joe,

I am in the market for a breast pump. My insurance has informed me that as long as I remain "in network" that all costs will be taken care of. 1. What does it mean to remain "in network"? 2. What brands/models of breast pumps to you suggest?

Thanks,

Jake


You know, I may have to tap the knowledge of a few recent mothers to get official recommendations for this, regarding brand.

"In network" refers to if the supplier of said breast pump, or make/model of breast pump, is part of an approved list that the insurance company is willing to offset the cost for. In order to be covered by insurance, unfortunately you cannot just go to Walmart and buy one off the shelf - you have to have your doctor supply you one and/or a DME ship you one (Direct Medical Equipment supplier).

Kinda bullshit, since I have no idea what the MSRP pre-discount is for a typical breast pump. I did locate a guide for "the best" ones, but some of these are $300 for a fucking boob milker.

http://pregnant.thebump.com/baby-products/bottles-breast-pumps/articles/best-breast-pumps-reviews.aspx

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Chip McShoulder
Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 7:20 am Reply with quote
dog licking ice cream cone Joined: 11 Aug 2008 Posts: 3022 Location: Rainbow Road

caustic meatloaf wrote:


Stay away from the Forrester, it's a POS. The WRX is a bit too ricerockety, The tribeca is too WASPY, so that narrows it down to the outback, a tried-and-true Seattle favorite, or the legacy, which is also pretty good actually.



The impreza is a "yobbo car" to put it in terms Ryan will be familiar with.

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MurpleMan
Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 2:12 pm Reply with quote
BOOGER TOM Joined: 17 Jan 2013 Posts: 594 Location: Beacon Hill

Dear Joe,

Do we have a date set for the xmas tree burn this (/next) year?

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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 3:07 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Dec 2010 Posts: 1235537 Location: a hammy melange...

If memory serves, it tends to happen in January. Already, that narrows down the list of potential dates by 92%

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rob
Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 3:23 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 28 Jul 2007 Posts: 1315 Location: Columbia City

It'll probably be a Thursday, too. We've ruled out 98.6% of dates in 2015 already!
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bigbielawski
Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 4:13 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 23 Feb 2013 Posts: 111 Location: Montlake

I could be wrong, but I would also bet that January 1 is unlikely, so that brings the elimination percentage up to 98.9%.
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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 4:18 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Dec 2010 Posts: 1235537 Location: a hammy melange...

You know, I think the 26th will be too late, so either the 18th or the 25th, so we've ruled out 99.46% of all of 2015!

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Drain
Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 4:37 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 22 Feb 2010 Posts: 902 Location: Seattle

I'll be OoT on all but Jan 8th (this information is critical to the club's decision making process).

Edit: That wasn't a question, see below.

Dear Joe,

Did you notice that the 18th and 25th are Sundays?

Sincerely,

Ian

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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 5:45 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Dec 2010 Posts: 1235537 Location: a hammy melange...

Drain wrote:
I'll be OoT on all but Jan 8th (this information is critical to the club's decision making process).

Edit: That wasn't a question, see below.

Dear Joe,

Did you notice that the 18th and 25th are Sundays?

Sincerely,

Ian


This is what I get for not looking in the january 2015 part of the calendar. the 15th and 22nd are the thursdays in question.

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rob
Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 6:02 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 28 Jul 2007 Posts: 1315 Location: Columbia City

caustic meatloaf wrote:

This is what I get for not looking in the january 2015 part of the calendar. the 15th and 22nd are the thursdays in question.


What happened to the 1st and the 8th?
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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 6:07 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Dec 2010 Posts: 1235537 Location: a hammy melange...

rob wrote:
caustic meatloaf wrote:

This is what I get for not looking in the january 2015 part of the calendar. the 15th and 22nd are the thursdays in question.


What happened to the 1st and the 8th?


IMPOSSIBRU. too soon after xmas for trees to be out on the curb. Statistically, the 3rd and 4th week after xmas are when the most trees are chucked.

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rza
Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 6:08 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 22 Jul 2013 Posts: 452

Dear Joe,

I'm about to start my first bike build project, and I'm looking for a good print resource that'll walk me through the various decision points along the way. I hate reading articles on the internet, and would prefer a big ol' book I can supplement with pointythree community knowledge.

??,
rza
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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 6:22 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Dec 2010 Posts: 1235537 Location: a hammy melange...

It's simple. First, put Scott, Fred, Lee, and Alex in the same room together. Record everything. Transcribe to text format. Make a million dollars with the world's best bike building book.

But, to begin with it all, before you build a bike that you want, you have to choose what bike you want to build. MTB? Road? Touring? Racing?

Really, to get to the granuarity you need for a bike, a book will only offer general recs, unless it's referring to componentry that is likely already out of date. Stuff changes pretty quick in the bike part world, and it seems like every new iteration of the same components ends up with a weird quirk to it that is totally different than before.

My personal opinion is keep it simple, keep it general. For a bike you will use the most, it needs to be generally OK in several fields, instead of stellar in just one.

IN GENERAL, touring-style bikes tend to be this jack-of-all-trades type of bike.

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rza
Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 7:16 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 22 Jul 2013 Posts: 452

I'm building up a sscx bike, so it's pretty focused. Parts are mostly going to depend on what I can rustle up locally, but I find it helpful for me if I have an idea of what sorts of considerations I should keep in mind before I start looking at what's available. My real concern is : which choices should I make first because they're going to influence all my later choices?

Mostly, I'm just a rather organized individual who wants to have an idea of what I'm doing before I jump in... but maybe I just need to find out what Scott's favorite kind of beer is and make a new best friend?
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limpyweta
Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 8:43 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 23 Sep 2008 Posts: 740 Location: North Beach

Wherever you get a certain part from, ask them what the make/model is or probably is. If it exists, go to manufacturers' instructions for that specific part first.

When you know kind of parts to get, but not specifically, Sutherland's 6th edition is excellent for bike building and I have a pdf, along with the Barnett's Bicycle Institute manual, but again, especially regarding torque, go to manufacturers' instructions first.

There's so much more tho, and them pages don't summarize the design considerations, compatibility, and sustainability in selecting components when building a bike from parts. The internet is really great sometimes.

Where are you starting from? I guess you already have a frame+some stuff?

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axel
Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 9:35 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 15 Feb 2013 Posts: 1654 Location: St Johns PDX

rza wrote:
I'm building up a sscx bike


singlespeed cyclocross is easy.

first thing to figure out is your gear ratio. for racing, a 2:1 is your baseline starting point (i.e., number of teeth on your chainring will be 2 x the number of teeth on your rear cog). I like 36x18, but you may find yourself going with a different ratio depending on your style, preferences, and course conditions. Mo Bruno Roy won the women's US SS nationals this year on a 38x18. Justin Lindine took the men's title on a 40x17 (wow).

second thing to figure out is how you're gonna keep the chain straight, tensioned, and securely on the cogs. lots of options here depending on the frame - from horizontal (track or sliding) dropouts, to eccentric bottom brackets (EBB), eccentric hubs (White Industries), or tensioners (Surly and Soulcraft). if your frame has a derailleur hanger, you can also use an old derailleur for tensioning.
how you end up doing all of this depends very much on your frame.

last, wheelset and tires. you don't need a SS-specific wheelset - any road cassette freehub can be converted to singlespeed with a cassette spacer kit (Surly, again). just slide on the appropriate number of spacers, put the cog on, then tighten everything down and adjust the chainline.
as far as tires go, most cyclocross clinchers are equally horrible. just get something with some knobs, but try to find a tire where the knobs are spaced far enough apart so they don't pack up with mud.

everything else like pedals, handlebars, brakes, saddle, etc. is really personal preference.
set your cockpit up so that you can move your weight in all directions around the bike easily.

go ride your bike and practice a lot. find out what works for you. have fun!

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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 2:38 am Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Dec 2010 Posts: 1235537 Location: a hammy melange...

I think Axel pretty much hits the nail on the head. For a macro view, based on axels comments, if there is one thing you should start with *first* to buy, it's a frame that you find comfortable. Get into bike shops or borrow rides, and try out bikes until you find one that has a frame you find comfortable. Like he said, a lot of decisions on how you want to build up your bike will depend largely on what the frame offers.

After that, get the parts and put 'em on.

Another option would be to buy a phil wood hubset and then ride the bike you built after buying that set. That's the "how to build a bike" version of the "how to draw an owl" youtube video.

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rob
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 8:33 am Reply with quote
Joined: 28 Jul 2007 Posts: 1315 Location: Columbia City

Personally, I'd say the gear ratio is the last thing to think about. And you can easily change it after that. I change mine between after cross season because I like a higher ratio for tooling around town / commuting.

Also, Clarissa, if you got the frame you were talking about getting, then the chain tensioner is built into the frame.

Also also, how prepped is the frame? Chased and faced? You can ask Joe if that's necessary. Is there already a headset installed?

rza wrote:

My real concern is : which choices should I make first because they're going to influence all my later choices?


As far as some decisions influencing others, these are what come to my mind as far as important connections between parts:


    Your cranks have to match your bottom bracket, preferably with an optimal chainline (so your chainring and freewheel line up well)

    Your choice of brake style has to match your choice of brake lever (short vs. long pull)

    Your handlebar width needs to match the stem.

    Your choice of chain width (3/32" or 1/8") should match your choice of chainring and cog.


Everything else is really plug and play. Here's the list of everything you need, grouped by things you should think about together


    Frame

    Chainline
    Wheelset
    bottom bracket
    cranks

    Brake System
    brakes
    brake levers

    Handlebar matching
    stem
    handlebars

    Chain size
    chainring
    freewheel or cog (it's not cross season yet, so why not go fixed until then?)
    chain

    Everything else
    seatpost (you'll need a 27.2 diameter seatpost)
    saddle
    housing + cabling
    rear brake hanger
    headset + spacers as needed + front brake hanger
    star-fangled nut
    Tires
    pedals
    bar tape
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limpyweta
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 9:01 am Reply with quote
Joined: 23 Sep 2008 Posts: 740 Location: North Beach

building a bike from the frame and just parts when you have nothing is a motherfucking time vampire. there are compatibility issues every step of the way, esp when shit wears out and the bike budget gets slim. if one's going to put all that effort into something so impractical for every other kind of riding, just in case, one may want to look into a frame that's steel, w common standards, not with a super aggro seat tube angle (like, over 75˚?), rack mounts, fender clearance, and housing routing/derailleur hanging options in case one would want to go with internal gears or something later.

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Alec
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rza
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 11:00 am Reply with quote
Joined: 22 Jul 2013 Posts: 452

limpyweta wrote:
building a bike from the frame and just parts when you have nothing is a motherfucking time vampire... if one's going to put all that effort into something so impractical for every other kind of riding, just in case, one may want to look into a frame that's not so specialized


Yerp. It's going to be a really specialized bike - that's the point! I already have a great steel bike for all the other things. This one's gonna be my princess bike. I've already got a frame, and bookoos of time to build it up. This is a funsies learning project!

Thanks Joe, both Rob's, and Alec for the supa helpful info. I'll connect with y'all offline with any follow-up questions/beer bribes.
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donavanm
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 3:55 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 14 Jun 2012 Posts: 1342

For the details I liked the park blue book. Most (all?) of the material is on their internets site, but I look dead trees for reference. Youre welcome to borrow a copy if youre unsure.

WRT parts surprises/dependencies lay attention to crank/bottom bracket width, crank/ring BCD, handle bar/stem diameter, frame/seat post diameter, and brake lever/caliper pull. The rest is (probably) plug and play. Also totally agree on time and money sink, $25 a pop adds up quick.
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wang
Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 10:22 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 25 Jan 2012 Posts: 884

limpyweta wrote:
building a bike from the frame and just parts when you have nothing is a motherfucking time vampire


This x100. Get ready to bump the budget a few times too.
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MurpleMan
Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 10:11 am Reply with quote
BOOGER TOM Joined: 17 Jan 2013 Posts: 594 Location: Beacon Hill

Dear Joe,

I've decided to finally break free from my cages and clip in. Who has the best selection of SPD shoes in town? I want to try on a bunch of different shoes. Rob suggested Gregg's as they have a wide selection but I also wanted to know of any other secret shoe stashes.

Clip clop,
Tom

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Andrew_Squirrel
Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 11:00 am Reply with quote
Joined: 01 Mar 2010 Posts: 2098 Location: Greenwood

Sorry to cut in but I would just like to say Greggs clearly doesn't understand the need of a Pointy3 cyclist.
Waybackwhen I went in there for my first pair of clipless shoes and told the clerk I specifically wanted a shoe I could wear to a bar and not fall on my ass.
At the time I knew nothing about the existence of clipless mountain shoes (nor urban) yet they somehow sold me overpriced road shoes with SPD converters. I wore the shoes that evening to a bar and you will never guess what happened next.

Yes, I strode into the bar, hit a wet spot & fell right on my ass in front of tens of people that all stopped their conversation to judge my choice in footwear.
The shoes have been in my closet ever since.
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