I'm looking to build up my touring bike for next summer's big adventure across the country, and I know I want dynamo lighting. I'd like to do something integrated, with the cabling done up clever-like. I'm leaning towards internal cabling unless you've got a much better idea. Here's what you need to know:
I've already paid for the bike, and it's in the build queue. It's a Lynskey Backroads. They're waiting for my input on how I want to do the cable run before they start building it.
So my questions for you:
How and where should I have the builder modify the frame in order to make the cable run neat? Do you have pictures of your suggestion? I'm especially interested in where you think I should drill holes for the cable run.
I need to buy a fork. What are the clever ways to integrate the dynamo lighting with the fork? I plan to mount the light at the fork crown, I think.
How would you get the power cable back to the rack light? I don't think I can drill holes in the rack due to the size of the tubing (it's the Tubus Titan currently on my commuter).
Thanks for your advice!
caustic meatloaf
Posted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 9:33 am
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
If you're going for a threadless fork, you could potentially run the front light wiring completely inside the fork - a hole down near one of the stays, a second up at the base of the steering tube, and then you route the wiring up into the inside of the steering tube and a small hole at the top of the steering tube and through the headset.
_________________ HIS NAME IS EDMUND
blasdelf
Posted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 11:01 am
BAD NAVIGATORJoined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 1505
caustic meatloaf wrote:
If you're going for a threadless fork, you could potentially run the front light wiring completely inside the fork - a hole down near one of the stays, a second up at the base of the steering tube, and then you route the wiring up into the inside of the steering tube and a small hole at the top of the steering tube and through the headset.
this is possible using a carbon brush and concentric brass slip collar between the steerer and headtube
Matthew owes you a nutpunch for having suggested it, you are awarded no points, and may god have mercy on your soul
blasdelf
Posted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 11:24 am
BAD NAVIGATORJoined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 1505
As for your crank problem I looked, and the XX cranks are the only ones with multiple Q-factor options (to get 156). All the lesser ones with have 167.5 or 170.9mm Q!
If going that route, you can lay a strip of black gaffer's tape to the inside of the fork blade and silicone the wire to that.
blasdelf
Posted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 11:49 am
BAD NAVIGATORJoined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 1505
Matthew wrote:
How and where should I have the builder modify the frame in order to make the cable run neat? Do you have pictures of your suggestion? I'm especially interested in where you think I should drill holes for the cable run.
This is showing Di2 wiring, but totally relevant here just on the NDS. Your frame is shown with a domed treatment at the plate dropout instead of a flat 'porkchop' but there's surface area there either way.
You could even have them use the same grommets, I have some fancy 3mm coaxial wire that should fit them.
blasdelf
Posted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 11:53 am
BAD NAVIGATORJoined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 1505
Matthew wrote:
How would you get the power cable back to the rack light? I don't think I can drill holes in the rack due to the size of the tubing (it's the Tubus Titan currently on my commuter).
don't worry you can totally drill that fucker, just deburr it and you'll be fine
also with the Supernova taillight you'll want to drill a third center hole on the rack's mounting plate regardless — you don't want to resort to this jackassery:
jimmythefly
Posted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 12:49 pm
Joined: 10 Jan 2007Posts: 1491
Be sure whatever BB you use has enough room to run a light wire around it inside the shell.
I think on that Lynskey you've actually got a pretty nice non-internal routing available to the rear light. All you have to do is pair up your rear light wiring with the rear brake housing. you can use nice small wraps of electrical tape, heat shrink tubing, etc.
With black housing and black light wire, it'll be no problem to create a pleasing looking run of wire that is also mostly tucked out of harm's way. Once you get to the rear dropout area simply route it up part of the rack, or go internal on the rack as Fred suggests.
I don't think drilling the rack will be a big deal, but it WILL be a bit tougher to do on Ti than on the stainless racks.
For the fork, if steel, I'd jsut run internally inside the leg and out the front near the crown.
jimmythefly
Posted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 12:56 pm
Joined: 10 Jan 2007Posts: 1491
PS Fred if you haven't seen it already, this is an interesting post on SRAM cranks/spiders/gearing.
I think on that Lynskey you've actually got a pretty nice non-internal routing available to the rear light. All you have to do is pair up your rear light wiring with the rear brake housing. you can use nice small wraps of electrical tape, heat shrink tubing, etc.
I think he's doing cable stops for all three on the DT
You can heatshrink it to the exposed inner cable, the FD one is most immune to interference and usually moves the least. PVC is much better than the usual Polyolefin for this application, sturdier and slicker.
You can also do a tubing tunnel with heatshrink just at the ends as a gasket
donavanm
Posted: Tue Dec 03, 2013 2:03 am
Joined: 14 Jun 2012Posts: 1342
blasdelf wrote:
also with the Supernova taillight you'll want to drill a third center hole on the rack's mounting plate regardless — you don't want to resort to this jackassery:
I had bad luck with drilling that bridge on my tubus. I have the same supernova front and rear. The diameter of the wire/stress relief is very close to the width of the bridge. By the time it fit there wasnt much material left on it. An errant piece of firewood totally collapsed the bridge. I think some small tabs and mounting the light parallel/underneath the bridge is the way to go.
Bo Ttorff
Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2017 2:55 pm
GO SEAHAWKS!! 12 for LYFEJoined: 20 Jul 2011Posts: 3092Location: King County
Will a 6v 3w dynamo work on a 20" rim?
A dynamo hub very similar to the bricks too tall has been hawking
Alex
Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 1:29 pm
Joined: 18 May 2006Posts: 3128Location: Roosevelt
Yes. There are special dynohubs meant for small wheels that are a bit more efficient, but the regular ones work just fine.
Bo Ttorff
Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 2:42 pm
GO SEAHAWKS!! 12 for LYFEJoined: 20 Jul 2011Posts: 3092Location: King County
Thanks Alex!
likesWhiteChicks Kevin
Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2017 1:43 pm
Joined: 07 Dec 2012Posts: 391Location: Seattle
hey peeps, do any of you have some wiring to spare? I have a rear light to hookup and not sure exactly what to use.
caustic meatloaf
Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2017 3:50 pm
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
likesWhiteChicks Kevin wrote:
hey peeps, do any of you have some wiring to spare? I have a rear light to hookup and not sure exactly what to use.
FYI, buy a 15 foot cat5e cable. 24ga stranded wire in there. Super cheap at Fry's, and then you have enough wire for days
All times are GMT - 8 Hours
The time now is Fri Aug 11, 2023 4:31 am
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
rookie
Joined: 20 Aug 2007
Posts: 1173
Location: Sur le nord-ouest des États-Unis, pret de la frontier Québécois
Joined: 06 Dec 2010
Posts: 1235537
Location: a hammy melange...
BAD NAVIGATOR
Joined: 01 Mar 2010
Posts: 1505
Joined: 10 Jan 2007
Posts: 1491
Joined: 14 Jun 2012
Posts: 1342
GO SEAHAWKS!! 12 for LYFE
Joined: 20 Jul 2011
Posts: 3092
Location: King County
Joined: 18 May 2006
Posts: 3128
Location: Roosevelt
Joined: 07 Dec 2012
Posts: 391
Location: Seattle
