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whitenhiemer
Posted: Tue May 10, 2016 10:59 am Reply with quote
Joined: 26 Sep 2013 Posts: 591 Location: somewhere up north

So I think the Crank is going bad on my SRAM VIA 24 set that I have on my Giant Escape. The bottom bracket is fairly new, less than a year, but the Crank is about 4 years old. I have to crank down the hex bolt to tighten the crank on to the square taper bottom bracket almost every ride now.

I'll pull the crank off and check the bottom bracket for damage this evening.

I don't know enough about drivetrains to order a new triple crank.

How do I know what is compatible?

The new SRAM VIA line isn't square taper according to the website, so I can't use the new one. So I'm looking for a compatible triple, I don't care about esthetics, I'm more concerned about durability.
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wang
Posted: Tue May 10, 2016 11:03 am Reply with quote
Joined: 25 Jan 2012 Posts: 884

whitenhiemer wrote:
I have to crank down the hex bolt to tighten the crank on to the square taper bottom bracket almost every ride now.


http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/installing-cranks.html

it is totally time for a new crankarm. drive side or non-driveside?

non-driveside you can just replace with whatever that's the same length

edit:https://www.sram.com/sram/urban/products/via-24
looks sqare taper to me
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whitenhiemer
Posted: Tue May 10, 2016 11:10 am Reply with quote
Joined: 26 Sep 2013 Posts: 591 Location: somewhere up north

this time it is the drive side, its been running strong for years now and I think it needs a viking funeral. The non-drive side was already replaced, with a loosey from Recycled cycles.
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wang
Posted: Tue May 10, 2016 11:22 am Reply with quote
Joined: 25 Jan 2012 Posts: 884

whitenhiemer wrote:
this time it is the drive side, its been running strong for years now and I think it needs a viking funeral. The non-drive side was already replaced, with a loosey from Recycled cycles.


Might behoove you to take another trip to recycled to see if they have anything in the bin that'll work and install it with a torque

That said, cranks must be torqued to spec on installation. If you ride on a loose square taper crank, you will ruin it.
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whitenhiemer
Posted: Tue May 10, 2016 11:25 am Reply with quote
Joined: 26 Sep 2013 Posts: 591 Location: somewhere up north

wang wrote:
whitenhiemer wrote:
this time it is the drive side, its been running strong for years now and I think it needs a viking funeral. The non-drive side was already replaced, with a loosey from Recycled cycles.


Might behoove you to take another trip to recycled to see if they have anything in the bin that'll work and install it with a torque

That said, cranks must be torqued to spec on installation. If you ride on a loose square taper crank, you will ruin it.


Thanks, I'll bus it home tonight, and check recycled this weekend.
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walker
Posted: Tue May 10, 2016 11:46 am Reply with quote
Joined: 05 Aug 2015 Posts: 1855 Location: beastcake

wang wrote:
whitenhiemer wrote:
this time it is the drive side, its been running strong for years now and I think it needs a viking funeral. The non-drive side was already replaced, with a loosey from Recycled cycles.


Might behoove you to take another trip to recycled to see if they have anything in the bin that'll work and install it with a torque

That said, cranks must be torqued to spec on installation. If you ride on a loose square taper crank, you will ruin it.


bologna. just torque that fucker right on there.

all of my bikes are in perfect working order and only require occasional, minor maintenance.

(but in all honesty, if you torque it to I'm-pretty-sure-this-is-at-least-rec'd-torque but below this-is-going-to-destroy-threads, you'll be fine)

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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Tue May 10, 2016 1:20 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Dec 2010 Posts: 1235537 Location: a hammy melange...

I am in the camp of, in the immortal .sig of fat rob, "crank it down until it strips, and then back off a quarter turn".

and FYI, if it's cheaper to get a different BB, a JIS taper BB will accept an expanded ISO tapered square crank arm OK.


but in all seriuosness, get a pair of cranks from recycled, not just a single. you never know where singles have been. always trust a couple. couples never get into trouble.

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joeball
Posted: Tue May 10, 2016 2:44 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 24 Jul 2005 Posts: 6037 Location: Ether

Brandon, I'm sorry this is where you get bike feedback from. I hope you have alternative sources as well.
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whitenhiemer
Posted: Tue May 10, 2016 2:59 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 26 Sep 2013 Posts: 591 Location: somewhere up north

joeball wrote:
Brandon, I'm sorry this is where you get bike feedback from. I hope you have alternative sources as well.


I do own a torque wrench, and plan on torquing a new crank to spec...but the old crank is still dead as far as I can tell.

I'm still concerned about compatibility. Is there anything that I need to look for other than making sure the same number of teeth? and crank arm length?
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blasdelf
Posted: Wed May 11, 2016 1:22 am Reply with quote
BAD NAVIGATOR Joined: 01 Mar 2010 Posts: 1505

whitenhiemer wrote:
I have to crank down the hex bolt to tighten the crank on to the square taper bottom bracket almost every ride now.


Never do this. Progressively tightening the bolt is what led you down this death spiral in the first place, you're hogging out the taper a little at a time.

If your shit is loose, pull the crank all the way off and reinstall it.
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