So I'm trying to get my chainline tidy on my sscx bike, and I think the easiest way to do so will be to swap my chainring and bashguard, so that the bashguard is inside and the chainring is outside (on a double). Is there any reason not to do this, other than goofy look and potential for greasy pants?
I suppose that if the bike is leaning to the drive side, which it will be doing at least a little bit more often than not when the chainring could strike something, I have slightly less protection (angles n shit), but this seems to be splitting hairs.
Or should I just pull the fucker off entirely?
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wang
Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 2:08 pm
Joined: 25 Jan 2012Posts: 884
SS-omafiets-CX?
joeball
Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 2:28 pm
Joined: 24 Jul 2005Posts: 6037Location: Ether
What kind of cranks/bb?
You should get a wider bottom bracket if you have square taper. Don't shuffle the guard and ring.
What rear hub/cog set up? If running spacers on a free hub, shuffle these to get the chain line dialed.
J_Dada
Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 2:36 pm
Down 2 FUNKJoined: 14 Oct 2012Posts: 1274
Unless you plan on actually using your bashguard to help you clear obstacles ('going to bash'), pull it off entirely and just be cognizant of whats in your path. I'm bash-less on my sscx, I've never hit the chainring, and I do dumb things on rocks all the time.
Small drivetrain helps. For example 36x13 is roughly the same gear inches as 47x17, but offers way more clearance.
axel
Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 3:48 pm
Joined: 15 Feb 2013Posts: 1654Location: St Johns PDX
joeball wrote:
If running spacers on a free hub, shuffle these to get the chain line dialed.
this would be by far the fastest and least expensive fix if it's something you can do. if you're running a singlespeed hub, you may not have this option and you can move the chainring to the inner position. would be the next step before messing with changing bottom bracket width or swapping the cranks.
J_Dada wrote:
Unless you plan on actually using your bashguard to help you clear obstacles ('going to bash'), pull it off entirely and just be cognizant of whats in your path. I'm bash-less on my sscx, I've never hit the chainring, and I do dumb things on rocks all the time.
nah, the point of a bashguard on a CX bike is not about protecting the chainring like you'd want to do on a MTB or trials bike. different purpose.
it's about preventing the chain from dropping off the outside of the chainring when you crash, or go hitting a rough section at speed, or when you screw up a remount and land just a little too hard on the saddle.
if you're running a narrow-wide chainring (get these from SRAM or Wolf Tooth Components), or if your chain is tensioned properly (horizontal dropouts seem to be best in my experience for this) then the likelihood of ejecting your chain off the ring is reduced.
if this is the case for you, you can get a cheap set of single-ring chainring bolts and just run the chainring in the inner position on the crank with no bashguard at all.
some folks take it further and run both an inner and outer guard to keep that chain on that ring.
when I ran a 1x10 CX setup a few years ago, I used an outer guard and an inner chain keeper.
don't use the Paul chain keeper under any circumstances, they suck.
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TorreyK
Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 4:49 pm
Joined: 02 Sep 2009Posts: 1116Location: White Center/Burien
+1 for single chainring specific chainring bolts for standard chainrings.
+1 for wide/narrow chainrings on 1 x gear set-ups, but not especially necessary for a properly tensioned single speeds
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axel
Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 5:12 pm
Joined: 15 Feb 2013Posts: 1654Location: St Johns PDX
and then when all else fails, run a 2x39t in the front and 8x16t in the rear.
infinitely adjustable chainline.
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walker
Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 6:03 pm
Joined: 05 Aug 2015Posts: 1855Location: beastcake
joeball wrote:
What kind of cranks/bb?
You should get a wider bottom bracket if you have square taper. Don't shuffle the guard and ring.
What rear hub/cog set up? If running spacers on a free hub, shuffle these to get the chain line dialed.
Cranks/BB: FSA Gossamer, FSA Mega Exo (I know... but this bike cannot become a money pit).
Freewheelin' with a WI. This definitely stays on, restricting my choices for running small x small (though good advice dada)
axel wrote:
if you're running a narrow-wide chainring (get these from SRAM or Wolf Tooth Components), or if your chain is tensioned properly (horizontal dropouts seem to be best in my experience for this) then the likelihood of ejecting your chain off the ring is reduced.
if this is the case for you, you can get a cheap set of single-ring chainring bolts and just run the chainring in the inner position on the crank with no bashguard at all.
TorreyK wrote:
+1 for single chainring specific chainring bolts for standard chainrings.
+1 for wide/narrow chainrings on 1 x gear set-ups, but not especially necessary for a properly tensioned single speeds
I had thought narrow/wide was really only for 1xWhatever, where you know the chainline is going to frequently be off a bit. I've been told the wide "grabs" the chain and puts it in the right place with no wiggle, then the narrow allows a little wiggle so you don't "leverage" the chain off (sorry, I can't think of a word better than leverage, but maybe you know what I mean...). If this is true, don't I just want a standard chainring at proper tension, since the chainline (should) always be straight?
And yep, got horizontal forkends.
Also, is there any advantage to using single chainring specific bolts over double bolts with spacers (other than omg grams)? I just think things look cleaner (with less jagged edges) with the spacers if you're running a single on the inside.
I'm having a hard time understanding how those double guards can be bolted on to a double crank with a chainring. What am I missing? Is that actually a triple?
axel wrote:
and then when all else fails, run a 2x39t in the front and 8x16t in the rear.
I want this setup on one of those old Shimano drivetrains with the freewheel in the BB, so I can pointlessly shift while coasting.
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Park your car right on my face
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Dan
Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 7:48 pm
Shut UpJoined: 03 Aug 2014Posts: 566Location: Beacon Hill
axel wrote:
and then when all else fails, run a 2x39t in the front and 8x16t in the rear.
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