I've been waiting until March to build a new rear wheel due to apparently a side impact that I've been keeping true by over tensioning out of round but within tolerance of my brake pads on the rim. Felt this was my jam song this video after ordering some parts today with my dividend because this guy is an expert builder. Like me though we all start out somewhere adjusting based on the brakes for true. Years of maintaining on my own while homeless I done of that skill he talks about feeling spoke tension to stiff or to loose and carefully balancing to get near the same tension leaning to back spokes down to make them no to ridgid and break or to much flex.
This one is a great demo of the tension gage by park tools. Honestly blessed to have good advise from experienced mechanics for years and to have practiced as one even with limited told and training at a box store to get me confident on my own bike. It's been years since I built one from scratch but i put so the numbers on for my measurements and still have the same truing stand. Disclaimer this is really something that takes time and experience to learn especially with limited tools but checking and rechecking your work over time and doing single spoke repairs takes patience to get that knowledge.
You found the proper link for my space jam deal gif thanks!
THE LONG of IT;
To be fair I'm making progress doing post mortem on that rim. I have a ton of numbers but even with perfectly even balanced tension that rim still had serious out of roundness, I also had to redo it so to speak because when I took it off it wasn't how I would have left it after truing. Some of the spokes were so loose there was almost no tension even to touch. I have been working to understand why since I tensioned and trued it so recently and braking action shouldn't loosen them that so fast. I got it to equal tension measured everything and then had to tru it from there. Then add tension still within tolerances and well dished to center the wheel but it's still out of round like it always was either way. Seems like there are spokes that are the wrong length since many either way also fit way to far in sticking out of the nipples. Doesn't seem to be the same places as the out of round and tensions are still comparable spoke to spoke on each side. Maybe from replacement of the old spokes or before I owned it the wrong size. The new spokes are all the same on each side and calculated to fit properly. I'll be using a spoke dope thread treatment for lubrication and locking I picked up half the cost from Zum Wax on amazon. I still have to measure all the spokes by position as I take them off and lace in new spokes so I can figure out if some were just the wrong length. I hopeful these spokes should come within a millimeter of just filling the threads of new nipples. They are single butted 2.3 at the j bend to 2.0 to the nipple Sapim steel which is suppose to be about ideal for strength from an article I read saying 2.4 single butted. I'm using wheel builders aluminum colored nipples which they claim are high strength for alloy and I usually only find alloy in shops anyways so no brass. When I get that done I have extras and for touring 3 each side as I've picked up and I've got nipples and extras for the front.
AND SHORT of IT;
If I do ride tonight it's going to be on the same rim I recently re put back together until I get the new on assembled since I'm reusing the hub. So don't expect a new wheel yet on the 18th
Last edited by Reigh on Thu Apr 18, 2019 3:01 pm; edited 2 times in total
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