My rear wheel is quick release. Why? I have no clue.
I need to change it over so it's bolts.
I'm tired of having to readjust my tire everytime I go to jump on my bike because the chain is loose.
is this easy to do?
dennyt
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 12:51 am
rocket mechanicJoined: 02 Aug 2005Posts: 2708
Yeah, you just need a new axle that's solid, the same thread pitch as your old one, the right length, and some track nuts.
sekai
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 8:11 am
Joined: 25 Jul 2005Posts: 1466Location: on the lake
lbs, beth @ city bikes?
leah
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 8:50 am
elderJoined: 10 Feb 2006Posts: 594Location: The Bucket
i switched to bolts a few years ago with a set i bought at Velo on C. Hill. they striped themselves within days leaving me with a dangerously loose rear (wheel). it was amazing. other crap i wish i hadn't bought there: lights, saddle, tire. expensive, crappy, not even what i asked for. i like to think the mechanics know more than i do.
anyone else with this experience?
_________________ putting the gay back into gangsta.
joeball
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 9:17 am
Joined: 24 Jul 2005Posts: 6037Location: Ether
So I have replaced axles with loose bearings/cones but what is up with cartridge bearing type hubs? Bear with my poor description, but there appears to be "sleeves" on the axle which fit the interior diameter of the bearing cartridge assembly, are these sleeves part of a proprietary axle or are they threaded onto a standard 10x1 or 9x1 axle?
dennyt
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 9:43 am
rocket mechanicJoined: 02 Aug 2005Posts: 2708
Usually it's a custom axle, but sometimes companies will make thread-on bearing seats like you described.
SeditiousCanary
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 2:05 pm
sorry, can't make it!Joined: 26 Jan 2006Posts: 2315Location: Fremont Troll
josh m wrote:
is this easy to do?
As long as you can overhaul your hubs without problems, yes. You need an axle for each hub you are going to convert (usually 9X1mm for front and 10X1mm for rear) which is at least 1" wider than your existing one. If you plan on using tensioners, add the thickness of both tensioners to the 1".
Over haul your hub and pull all the cones, spacers and locknuts off the QR axle.
Reassemble with the new longer axle, but do not fully adjust.
Once everything is together, measure the nuts from outside to outside in the frame with nuts, washers and tensioners (if any) in place.
Subtact the outside to outside measurement from the total axle length, and cut off the extra. (Leave the axle nuts on to help straighten out the threads after cutting.)
Clean up the axle where you cut it off and recenter the axle in the hub.
Adjust everything and make sure it's all tight, and ride.
Sarah
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 7:19 pm
Joined: 24 Jul 2005Posts: 184
leah wrote:
i switched to bolts a few years ago with a set i bought at Velo on C. Hill. they striped themselves within days leaving me with a dangerously loose rear (wheel). it was amazing. other crap i wish i hadn't bought there: lights, saddle, tire. expensive, crappy, not even what i asked for. i like to think the mechanics know more than i do.
anyone else with this experience?
Velo:
too much attitude for the knowledge
too much price for the quality
I wish there was another Cap Hill bike shop, because sometimes it's just too convenient not to stop there for something urgent.
zuvembi
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 7:22 pm
Joined: 24 Jul 2005Posts: 942Location: Little Addis Ababa
Quote:
Velo:
too much attitude for the knowledge
too much price for the quality
I wish there was another Cap Hill bike shop, because sometimes it's just too convenient not to stop there for something urgent.
Supposedly someone is starting a shop at about 20th and Cherry if I recall correctly. Some fellow I met on the most recent Xtracycle ride. I need to go dig up his card and email him and ask what's up. He said he was opening this month.
SeditiousCanary
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 7:39 pm
sorry, can't make it!Joined: 26 Jan 2006Posts: 2315Location: Fremont Troll
Sarah wrote:
I wish there was another Cap Hill bike shop, because sometimes it's just too convenient not to stop there for something urgent.
2020 Union should be opening soonish.
zuvembi
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 8:05 pm
Joined: 24 Jul 2005Posts: 942Location: Little Addis Ababa
SeditiousCanary wrote:
Sarah wrote:
I wish there was another Cap Hill bike shop, because sometimes it's just too convenient not to stop there for something urgent.
2020 Union should be opening soonish.
Yes, that's the one I was thinking of.
Aaron
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 9:18 pm
Joined: 25 Jul 2005Posts: 4645
Old SunTour and Specialized cartridge bearing hubs (aka. sealed bearing hubs) use a regular quick release axle. No shoulders or sleeves. You can replace those or most other cup-and-cone-loose-ball hub axles with solid axles. Most good shops will stock the size you need. I do. Surly hubs use that design. Formula/IRO and all the clones with small 6000 series bearings use a special shouldered axle and cannot be converted to QR (aka hollow axle, Dean!). It is rare, but some QR hubs with cartidge bearings use the internal shoulder design.
So, Dean, Sean had a Dura-Ace hub at the wrench party. It was hollow and a smaller hole than what a QR skewer would fit thru. I would call any hollow axle that a skewer would fit in a Quick Release axle. I have installed extra long ones in hubs and used track nuts to make them a bolt-on type.
I think the reason you think that solid axles are weaker than hollow is because most solid axles are not Cro-Moly. They bend easily. Most QR axles are Cro-Moly and are very strong. However, when I said solid axles are stronger, I was refering to Solid Cro-Moly axles. That debate we had at the last wrench party has been bugging me and I wanted to clarify. So if we compare apples to apples (cro-mo) and are talking about bicycle axle dimensions (10mm), Solid axles are WAY stronger! The 14mm BMX axles I stock for replacement are Cro-Mo. The solid ones you bent were probably just high tensle steel.
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