Depending on the stem it might be OK to use a 26.0mm bar. Aluminum Can shim works well too. I would not recommend normally, but I am assuming you are NOT using regular brake levers. If you did then there might be too much leverage and the bars would slip. That would be bad!
The acid test is to put all your weight on the handlebars standing in front of the bike, If they don't slip they are fine. Grease the bolt but not the shim or the bars.
Greg Lemond's mechanic use Coke can shims on this bike in 1988. You can see the red in the poster at my shop.
seaden
Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 9:29 pm
Joined: 09 Dec 2005Posts: 397Location: CapHill
yeah I figured I could use shims but would rather find 26.4 bars to fit exactly. I'm not using any brakes so I have to make sure they are really snug. thanks:)
BTW do you have any used 26.4 cinelli road bars that I can chop into bullhorns?
I have some mavic bull horn bars that didn't fit in a 26.0 stem, they may be be 26.4 like the cinelli. I'll try to get a camera to take a picture of them or we could meet up and you could look at them and we could try it with your stem? You still live near cap hill? I am in the CD
ChilliConCarnage
Posted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 12:36 pm
Joined: 26 Apr 2006Posts: 20
I have some Cinelli drop bars. I just took them off of a bike because the quilled stem seems to be frozen in the fork, so I removed the bars, cut the stem, and replaced the whole lot.
Incidentally - Does anybody have any suggestions about removing a stem that appears to be frozen into a fork? It's a cool chrome Merckx fork, and I don't want to throw it away....
lantius
Posted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 12:58 pm
1337Joined: 22 Jul 2005Posts: 6705Location: right over
how frozen? i've rarely seen a stem that doesn't respond to a little 'persuasion' with a couple quick hammer whacks. getting some wd40 down there wouldn't hurt either. flip it over and get some in from below, let it soak in.
if it's aluminum corrosion you are dealing with (not super likely), you can pour some ammonia down there instead. andre, i looked it up and that goes same for your seatpost woes.
mork the delayer
Posted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 1:02 pm
Joined: 06 Apr 2006Posts: 548Location: Providence, RI
What's the science behind this ammonia for aluminum corrosion deal?
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joeball
Posted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 1:30 pm
Joined: 24 Jul 2005Posts: 6037Location: Ether
mork the delayer wrote:
What's the science behind this ammonia for aluminum corrosion deal?
exactly...man there is a lot of "information" on the web but I am leery till it comes out in hard copy.
it's my understanding that there is not a simple solvent for aluminum oxide, where as solvents for iron oxide are more readily available, ie wd-40.
one stem and one seatpost got the better of me and remained stuck, i did get a frozen stem out once but that was by force, hammering down on the top of it till it loosened then pulling it out.
Thanks for those great links. From what I read, to get the stem out would likely require drilling and grinding. I don't have the tools for that. So I suppose I should take it to a shop....
lantius
Posted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 2:54 pm
1337Joined: 22 Jul 2005Posts: 6705Location: right over
mork the delayer wrote:
What's the science behind this ammonia for aluminum corrosion deal?
Most metals, Steel & aluminum included react with acids (H+ ions
(protons)). Aluminum is unusual in that it also reacts with alkali (OH-
ions (Hydroxyl ions)). This is why you should not use caustic soda to
clean aluminum pans. Other metals including do not reacat with alkali,
or in some cases are protected from rust (For example, the steel
reenforcement in very alkali concrete).
Ammonia solution is a weak alkali, so it will disolve aluminum, but as
it is weak, it is not very fast or aggresive, so it tends to go
selectively for the aluminum oxide that is jaming your Alu seatpost to
your steel frame. Once this layer is disolved, the seatpost should slide
out easily. It would be a good idea to rinse it, but you will probably
do that anyway because of the smell.
Aaron
Posted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 6:03 pm
Joined: 25 Jul 2005Posts: 4645
If you have already cut the stem off and have the fork out you can use heat. Take it to David Wilson (davidwilsonindustries.com) He can torch it out of there no problem. Alumium melts at a much lower temperature than would harm your steel fork. The steer tube may need reaming and honing afterwards. I have those tools.
langston
Posted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 6:06 pm
Joined: 25 Jul 2005Posts: 5547Location: Columbia City
Aaron wrote:
If you have already cut the stem off and have the fork out you can use heat. Take it to David Wilson (davidwilsonindustries.com) He can torch it out of there no problem. Alumium melts at a much lower temperature than would harm your steel fork. The steer tube may need reaming and honing afterwards. I have those tools.
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ChilliConCarnage
Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 8:42 am
Joined: 26 Apr 2006Posts: 20
Thanks - I'll contact him....
futurenorth
Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 9:57 am
Bed BleederJoined: 25 Jul 2005Posts: 839Location: Ballard
Why would you chop perfectly fine cinelli bars into bullhorns? Sounds like a waste to me, but that's just my opinion.
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