My shimano 7spd freehub has started to slip occasionally. This usually happens when starting from a stop, or when resuming pedaling after coasting - sudden hard pressure on the pedals and the hub partially engages, then the pedals lurch forward a quarter revolution or so with a loud pop, then the hub engages fully and it works fine. A couple times there has been no engagement at all, no pop, just forward spinning with no resistance at all for a half revolution or more.
Can this be serviced, or do I need to replace the freehub body?
the dreaded ben
Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 3:06 pm
Grumpy GreebJoined: 20 Aug 2005Posts: 5329Location: flavor country
serviceable? probably, just try to take it apart. if you can't it's not.
worth your time? probably not.
MikeOD
Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 4:01 pm
Joined: 04 Feb 2006Posts: 545
Thanks Catfucker. What I mean is - is the problem I described fixable, and how do I fix it? Smashing my nuts on the stem isn't worth my time either, but it's likely to happen soon if I don't fix or replace the freehub body.
Recommended course of action?
Happy Stick Person
Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 4:16 pm
Joined: 20 Sep 2006Posts: 1168Location: Leschi
MikeOD wrote:
Thanks Catfucker. What I mean is - is the problem I described fixable, and how do I fix it? Smashing my nuts on the stem isn't worth my time either, but it's likely to happen soon if I don't fix or replace the freehub body.
Recommended course of action?
take it apart, clean it, put it back together, test it out....
my old regina 5 speed got all gunked up and the pawls were sticking closed and "slipping" a bit. cleaning it made it go good again.
SeditiousCanary
Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 5:12 pm
sorry, can't make it!Joined: 26 Jan 2006Posts: 2315Location: Fremont Troll
Happy Stick Person wrote:
MikeOD wrote:
Recommended course of action?
take it apart, clean it, put it back together, test it out....
Agreed. Pull cassette, pull axle, remove freehub, remove seals, and soak in something degreaser like, say gas, kerosene, mineral spirits, etc. Rinse and shake vigorously in some fresh degreasing like product. Let stand till totally dry, or dry with a hair dryer. Oil using a thick oil (Phil!), then reassemble.
Whee! Silent and clean with less chance of slipping. If it doesn't stop, you need a new freehub.
I don't know if it is serviceable but regardless you will need to removed the old freehub body to put a new one on so I would try it first. Obviously there is a chance the inside has dried/gunked up and the pawls are not engaging. So flushing and re-oiling is likely to make the innards happy.
MikeOD
Posted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 8:43 am
Joined: 04 Feb 2006Posts: 545
A good flush once in a while definitely keeps the innards happy. Thanks for the suggestions.
Aaron
Posted: Sat Oct 20, 2007 6:44 pm
Joined: 25 Jul 2005Posts: 4645
MikeOD wrote:
A good flush once in a while definitely keeps the innards happy. Thanks for the suggestions.
indeed, if you ever need to take the thing all the way apart, I have the special tool required. I also stock adjustment shims and new pawls.
limpyweta
Posted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 9:54 pm
Joined: 23 Sep 2008Posts: 740Location: North Beach
Do this right when the time comes, people. And they probably don't want to just use anything for lube.
I got a wrench to take a freehub off a wheel to give to me at a shop, then went to another shop nextdoor. The other wrench recommended some organic lube, I forgot the name of, PS: it had a cross on the bottle, to seep through unit while spinning the thing until one sees it piddling out the other end.
Did this, without washing out any old lube, but the thing felt great. I couldn't hear the pawls click and could easily spin it with my fingers.
I procrastinated installing the fiddled freehub on the bike I've been riding until the freehub in use really became the known source of the drivetrain skipping situation. At this point the lube in the fiddled freehub dried and was noticably gummier.
Installed it anyway, tested it in the stand, and the chain went pretty slack with an abrupt coast from a small cog, a low 40's tooth ring, and a cadence over 60rpm. This am, decided to test again with an abrupt coast at like 35 mph, and the chain went very, very slack. Slowly started pedaling again, and the chain just fell between tire and chainstay, cutting out the tire sidewall.
fingers crossed the EVT freehub tool is in stock. Greg at ABR recommended when lube application comes, to use a blow drier and Phil Oil on warm freehub. There's also the tutorial from Simon Rakower on IceBike, that Alaska cycling website.
Last edited by limpyweta on Sat Dec 20, 2014 9:37 pm; edited 1 time in total _________________ Alec
tehschkott
Posted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 10:12 pm
daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
Jesus Alec, this was from 2007. What the shit.
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Rogelio
Posted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 7:02 am
Joined: 31 Jul 2007Posts: 3092Location: Pos, aya, por la Corona-Alta-Madera y que no.
tehschkott wrote:
Jesus Alec, this was from 2007. What the shit.
Helpfully listed under a proper topic instead of "What did you do to your bike today?"
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limpyweta
Posted: Fri Oct 04, 2013 10:49 pm
Joined: 23 Sep 2008Posts: 740Location: North Beach
Joined: 23 Sep 2008Posts: 740Location: North Beach
another update: My above mentioned overhaul lubing (the one with Phil's oil and just enough grease to make the bearings stick on the freehub races) made the freehub engage only half the time, as of yesterday's evening, when I was expecting to move, trying to cross unlit arterial intersections after dark. At some times I was coasting as the cranks would spin in either direction.
The only times I've experienced freehubs slipping are when the rain really comes in.
I also had a bike wrench try to quick fix it by spraying lube between the cassette cogs. (??) There are freehub bodies with holes in the side like that?
Taking the whole thing apart, again, as it was dirty goopy, the pawl spring was fine but I could gently press the pawls in and they wouldn't spring back out. The pawls and steps didn't look too mauled, though it was apparent.
I got all the giblets back together without grease by keeping the pawl holding piece on a flat level surface, big side down, and splooging the Finish Line "wet" chain lube, like for track/Dutch bikes, not as sticky as Phil's, but not like TriFlow, on the race. This stuff allegedly doesn't dry and get hella sticky like that other chain lube. All 25 bearings barely stayed on the race with that stuff so I could slip the shell over it.
At the stage of reassembly where the next step would be putting the outer 25 bearings in the race, I rotated the thing and the pawls quickly snapped onto each step and engaged plenty of metal (≥1mm on the step?) on almost every step for sure.
The drive side hub bearing cup I greased so the thing was full with grease and all the bearings, but I guessed there would've been none of that grease slipping between the cup/threaded race and the freehub shell as I pressed the dustcap back on.[/i]
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limpyweta
Posted: Mon Apr 27, 2015 5:23 pm
Joined: 23 Sep 2008Posts: 740Location: North Beach
After like the first hard rain of the last mentioned setup, the freehub engaged like half the time, and the next morning, never. Then I took the dust cap off and saw a bunch of grease went between the wheel bearing cup and the freehub shell. I don't recall if it was from just a bunch of grease going through the cup notches or if the dustcap wasn't pressed firmly against the top of the cup.
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