daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
Jerf just squared it up. Thanks.
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joeball
Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 3:44 pm
Joined: 24 Jul 2005Posts: 6037Location: Ether
Yesterday I did my first smidgen of bicycle maintenance in months (save for preride tire inflation). I cleaned and lubed the squeaky chain on my LHT. I also took a tooth brush to try to clean off some of the dust from all the nooks an crannies that accumulated on there from a long car ride on a dirt road so that it wouldn;t be mistaken for a playa bike.
Also I walked pass my Pacer and notice a broken rear spoke. I know section of pavement I hit it on a few weeks ago when I last rode it but that nice 32 31-hole wheel still kept a true close enough that I didn't notice the broken spoke till after the fact. Funny how one spoke breaks on a 10-year old, factory built wheelset and I start coming up with justifications for building a whole brand new wheelset instead of just buying one new spoke.
Andrew_Squirrel
Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 3:48 pm
Joined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 2098Location: Greenwood
Which side of the spoke broke? How did it stay in place and not explode? I've only had one broken spoke before and it was pretty scary.
joeball
Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 4:59 pm
Joined: 24 Jul 2005Posts: 6037Location: Ether
It broke at the bend near the hub on the NDS.
tehschkott
Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 5:19 pm
daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
These are awshm. I wonder what it'll take to add how levers relate to this. Like, is there a nice reason, past the looks, why there are 2 cable anchor sockets right next to each other in some flat bar levers?
One is for road calipers/cantilevers. The other is for v-brakes and "mountain" mechanical discs.
jimmythefly
Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:54 pm
Joined: 10 Jan 2007Posts: 1491
New frames. Time to thin the herd once I do a bit of thinking on what to keep/sell/re-configure/squirrel-away.
ripper
Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 7:50 am
evilmikeJoined: 19 Apr 2006Posts: 640Location: Capitalist Hill
DO IT JIMMY
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Eric_s
Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 8:51 am
Joined: 07 Mar 2007Posts: 1691Location: the dirty south
Put brake bridge mounted cabal stop on x-check, which mostly solved the squealing and shudering problem. Put SLX rear der on, and changed my right side DT shitter to bar-end so that I have a barrel adjust somewhere in the rear derailer line, because mtb derailers don't have a barrel adjust (wtf?!?). Put nice fizik microtex batrape on, then realized that my hoods are a little too low, but i can't take the batrape off because it's too sticky (boo!). Might just loosen the bolts and see what a little mallet adjusting can do.
Also discovered that my old man 80mm +17 stem is too short for this geo and the bike is squirrely, so my next purchase is gonna be a front rack so I can commute with panniers and a little more weight on the front wheel. Hey andre, want to trade some albatross bars for a front rack? ;)
Pictures forthcoming.
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blasdelf
Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2012 1:02 pm
BAD NAVIGATORJoined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 1505
the normal fizik microtex can be rewrapped easily a number of times, it can take so much tension when wrapping and is tough as nails
might not work for "soft touch" suede version
tehschkott
Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 11:22 am
daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
Leaves are falling, autumn is here - it's 26in monsTOURcross season. Replaced 26x2.0 Kojak slicks with slightly more aggressive 26x1.9 Vulpines.
I love this fucking bike.
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Eric_s
Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 11:18 am
Joined: 07 Mar 2007Posts: 1691Location: the dirty south
blasdelf wrote:
the normal fizik microtex can be rewrapped easily a number of times, it can take so much tension when wrapping and is tough as nails
might not work for "soft touch" suede version
This is the soft touch. It comes apart the second you try to unwrap it. Oh well, that fuck up cost $20.
It's a cross check. I should just throw it in the street and start over with a new bike.
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joeball
Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 1:27 pm
Joined: 24 Jul 2005Posts: 6037Location: Ether
Eric_s wrote:
blasdelf wrote:
the normal fizik microtex can be rewrapped easily a number of times, it can take so much tension when wrapping and is tough as nails
might not work for "soft touch" suede version
This is the soft touch. It comes apart the second you try to unwrap it. Oh well, that fuck up cost $20.
It's a cross check. I should just throw it in the street and start over with a new bike.
This is the problem child. The regular (not soft touch) tape is awesome tape and lasts for years and years. The soft touch probably also lasts for years, unless you're an idiot and you need to re-wrap your bars.
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henry
Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 1:35 pm
somewhat piggishJoined: 05 Aug 2005Posts: 5415Location: on porch with shotgun
I ran it in to the back wheel of another bike on my way in to work, tearing his reflective sticker on his fender.
Well not today, but over the last week I put some Nitto Albatross bars on my LHT.
I got the albatross bars because they have appealing curves, they take bar end shifters and I wanted to try a swept back upright bar.
Setting up a cockpit opens a car of worms though, barend, thumb or DT shifters.... The problem with barends I realized was that lock-on grips don't play nice since the cable/housing exit of the shifter is right below the bar. I know people notch out cork ones and glue them on but I don't like gluing things on bikes. Wrapping the bars in bar tape could work but I like the clean look of grips.
Since DT shifters are so easy to cable they got another chance. I'll give them some more time but I'll probably try thumb shifters next.
I'm using my 26.0 4-bolt stem temporarily. It slips a little (25.4 bar clamp). I tried my nitto shim but it is just another interface to slip. A proper 25.4 clamp 4-bolt stem is on the way.
Andrew_Squirrel
Posted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 2:09 pm
Joined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 2098Location: Greenwood
Cool photo! Did you need to order a reasonably longer stem to accommodate how far the bars sweep back?
Is that a bell under the bar on the right?
joeball
Posted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 4:58 pm
Joined: 24 Jul 2005Posts: 6037Location: Ether
*ring ring*
Yes that's a upside down bell on the right. That is a 100mm 10 deg stem. I ordered a 100mm 17deg in 25.4mm clamp that'll bring it back and up a hair more. Upright is the name of the game.
dashap
Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 4:11 pm
professorJoined: 21 Jun 2006Posts: 1565Location: central district
joeball wrote:
The problem with barends I realized was that lock-on grips don't play nice since the cable/housing exit of the shifter is right below the bar.
On my Kalakala, I have bar ends with Oury grips; just cut out the end of the grip and run the housing under the bottom the grip. Works great!
Ductape
Posted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 8:46 am
Joined: 06 Mar 2010Posts: 200Location: Suburbia
xxx
tehschkott
Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 1:59 am
daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
Got home and the bike was like this on the roof. Didn't hear or feel it fall over. Didn't even notice at first.
I am not fucking happy. It was latched AND locked.
/grump
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Ductape
Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 6:19 am
Joined: 06 Mar 2010Posts: 200Location: Suburbia
I had the same thing happen on my Yakima roof Rack two weeks after buying my Subaru. Fell the other way though and left a nice ding in the side of the car. I felt bad about my buddies bike. A beautiful old OG.. Before...
After 20+ years of Yakima rack products, I am now sold on One Up......
ksep
Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 8:46 am
Joined: 27 Jan 2007Posts: 1879Location: Westlake
woah scott, did you tokyo drift into a low tree branch? or did some asshole side tackle your bike while you were parked on the street?
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tehschkott
Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 8:31 pm
daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
Neither. Didn't knowingly do anything special or unusual.
I don't really know what to do now.
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langston
Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 10:29 pm
Joined: 25 Jul 2005Posts: 5547Location: Columbia City
I think it was just metal fatigue in the drop out. $50 in parts & labor for a new end (or just swap forks) and you're back on the road. I never much like dropout racks, for just this reason. bummer it happened to you.
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jimmythefly
Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 10:47 am
Joined: 10 Jan 2007Posts: 1491
It's happened to me before -but only on logging roads.
I think all the left-right turning combined with potholes and pothole swerving caused my bike to "walk" up and out of the fork-mount. On mine the mount was still closed and tight, but the steel forks lawyer lips were all smeared out of the way.
There was a nice small dent in my roof from where the fork popped out and down onto the roof, but it didn't fall over and kill the dropouts like on Scott's.
Now when bombing down the Middle Fork road I first use a boat strap around the top tube near the headset to pull the bike down securely into the fork mounts.
lantius
Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 1:15 pm
1337Joined: 22 Jul 2005Posts: 6705Location: right over
What's the other dropout look like, the one that popped out instead of bending?
Alex
Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 1:29 pm
Joined: 18 May 2006Posts: 3128Location: Roosevelt
I give it a greater than 50% chance of being easily fixed, and am going to take an in-person look this weekend.
If you have an internal-cam quick release then take the lever off and check the end of the skewer. I bet it is cracked. Internal cams are better on bikes, but a bad design for roof racks because the part that starts to break is not easy to inspect. For roof racks they beef up the axle portion of the QR to 9mm, but keep the through hole for the cam with ~2mm walls that easily break. If you ever feel a bike rack QR feel springy and less firm than it used to be then replace it right away.
ATOC makes really nice QRs for roof racks. The current Yakimas are good too. I haven't used a modern Thule.
Andrew_Squirrel
Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 11:25 am
Joined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 2098Location: Greenwood
I did the Rivendork Grip King spike mod last night. It was a simple repetitive process but I found it very enjoyable. "Grip" Kings is a hilarious name for a pedal that pretty much has no grip when wet and requires a spike mod.
"MKS Grip King (aka Lambda) Platform Pedals 9/16" with spikes
Last edited by Andrew_Squirrel on Wed Nov 14, 2012 11:36 am; edited 1 time in total
tehschkott
Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 11:30 am
daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
nice!
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blasdelf
Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 2:02 am
BAD NAVIGATORJoined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 1505
holy shit andrew, you not only drilled out every last hole, you even tapped threads into the spiked ones instead of just forcing the setscrews to self-tap
that's fucking dedication
caustic meatloaf
Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 8:15 am
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
Awesome.
Just do you know, if you have a small drill, you could have used that with your tap bit - it will make life easier next time.
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Andrew_Squirrel
Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 11:49 am
Joined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 2098Location: Greenwood
When fueled by a new bottle of whiskey, loud classic rock and an excuse to use a drill press all of these otherwise mundane tasks seem appealing.
Plus, any activity away from a computer monitor feels novel these days.
It's rare that I get to use my grandfather's tap set but I will definitely keep that in mind Joe, thanks for the suggestion!
caustic meatloaf
Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 12:57 pm
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
mundane tasks can be very cathartic, that's for sure.
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tictoc
Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 10:59 am
Joined: 08 Jul 2009Posts: 765Location: Right here, Right Now!
caustic meatloaf wrote:
mundane tasks can be very cathartic, that's for sure.
until they become, well... mundane
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Alex
Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 6:42 am
Joined: 18 May 2006Posts: 3128Location: Roosevelt
caustic meatloaf wrote:
Awesome.
Just do you know, if you have a small drill, you could have used that with your tap bit - it will make life easier next time.
Use lots of lube and a sharp tap if doing this. Small sized taps break very easily and once broken they are nearly impossible to get out of there.
joeball
Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 11:18 am
Joined: 24 Jul 2005Posts: 6037Location: Ether
I pulled out the organizer sleeve from one of my ortlieb frontrollers that I use heavily. The bottom had torn out. I bought some new little organizer bags to keep small items in one place. (click on the photo to see notes)
jimmythefly
Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 3:39 pm
Joined: 10 Jan 2007Posts: 1491
I builded it.
Andrew_Squirrel
Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 3:48 pm
Joined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 2098Location: Greenwood
damn, lookin good. What type/brand of rear brake is that?
jimmythefly
Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 4:07 pm
Joined: 10 Jan 2007Posts: 1491
Dia Compe XCE u-brake. Otherwise known as a centerpull, in this case on brazed-on bosses.
Honestly, kind of a PITA to deal with. Lots of friction, doesn't open as wide as a canti for tire removal. I haven't used enough of them to say if all Ubrakes are like this, or if it's just this particular one on this bike with it's cable routing.
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daywalker
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