yeah, that Lotus is sweet.

Tonight I found an old gun cleaning bit with those copper bristles, which can fit in 5mm nuts. Pinching it in a drill, it's been the fastest way to take old threadlocker and rust out of internal threads.

a)

b) I'm very envious of your oddly impractical looking setup.

c) Wha? Can you order the hub with that part threaded?

c) Wha? Can you order the hub with that part threaded?

Nice, what are your chainring tooth counts

That looks nice! I remember them blogging those cranks, but forgot to check and see if they were selling them yet.

What's the backside of those cranks like? Is there shelf for the inner ring? What BB spindle length and resulting Q did you end up with?

Finally got enough welding done on my half upright half recumbent long tail cargo tandem to give it a test ride. Base frame is an old ATP Double Vision.

Thanks for dropping knowledge (is power)
- France is Bacon

Finally got sick of swapping batteries on my B&M Toplight Permanent taillight so I installed/upgraded to a Toplight Line Braketec dynamo version. Super Commuter is now even more super and I'm excited about one less switch to press & one less battery to remember.

I decided to do a crazy new technique that requires no zip ties. Saw a guy on the flickr/google groups try it so did a sloppy job of copying his method.

I drilled a hole in the rear fender to perfectly fit a rubber grommet with an inner diameter close to the wire diameter.


I wasn't originally going to attempt to unroll the metal fender edge but I realized i would require much less glue/RTV so I was forced to make a hook-like tool from an ancient nail (think grandpa's leftover hardware) I found in my random hardware tin. It worked surprisingly well.


The taillight wire slid in with ease.but then when I attempted to close up the roll I found that pliers of all shapes & sizes didn't have enough leverage and power to keep the wire inside. I finally figured out a way to use a crescent wrench to roll the entire edge inwards and capture the wire. The only downside to this is one edge of my fender now has a subtle "hammered" look to it. Luckily Is consistent enough to look attractive.

Next I began making wire guides that would route the wire from the chainstay bridge to the HT/DT intersection. I took a long piece of aluminum tubing I purchased from a hobby store and began cutting it into small pieces using a hacksaw. In retrospect I probably should've tried to use the small diameter pipe cutter I had, it probably would've made cleaner cuts. Unfortunately I needed to file each little piece down and clear the inside from chips which was pretty labor intensive. I then crunched the tube a little in the bench vise to fit the shape of the dual stranded wire better (this had the added benefit of being a little more low profile)


I glued down the guides using some Marine/Auto RTV, seems to work okay but it will be interesting to see how they fare long term.


Made a cute little spiral of wire with my heat gun and a exacto handle

I glued down the guides using some Marine/Auto RTV, seems to work okay but it will be interesting to see how they fare long term.

You need a blog. You should come co-author Sweetbike

1 WEIRD trick for dynamo routing

local man discovers miraculous wire loss solution… peter white HATES him!


on your bike it's possible to avoid this whole external run

just drill a little entry hole in the lower point of the DT/HT lug

and an exit in the BB shell, best placement is in the crotch between the chainstays but if it doesn't want to fit around your cartridge BB you can put it on the lug socket for the DT

(you should drill a drain hole too while you're at it)

As long as I'm spamming the rest of the internet with stuff, here's my recently finally built commuter thingy.

I just looked it up, and the seller shipped me this frameset on 9/10/2012. Sometimes it takes me a while to get a project bike done I guess.

The frame is a Miyata Valley Runner with a replacement fork of unknown origin. Mike, yeah Nomads in 2.25 (more like 2.1" as I measure 'em)

Well, while I haven't seen the 700x28s yet, seems to me that nomads run like 10% small across the line.

The cool thing about it is that it has a 57cm top tube, while at the same time having that tall head tube. Almost every other older f'n mtb that you try to do drop bars on sucks because to get a short enough top tube also usually means a tiny head tube (and therefore either super low-n-long bars or boner stem).