Tim, not that you need any affirmation but I think you're going the right route by trying to give the UST system a fair shake before denouncing or modifying it.
The real reason UST got developed was to have a packaged system that theoretically works dry, because the manufacturers and shops freaked out about the liability and weirdness of selling something with wet sealant in it to customers. And still pretty much all of them roll out of shops with tubes in em, just too much education involved to sell retail.
The main reason UST tires are still manufactured is that all that extra rubber makes them super resistant to sidewall cuts. People that ride in shit like the sharp shale that's all over the place in the southwest love them.
It sucks that the market landscape is so fucked by liability ninnies and patents. And everything bad about the UST situation has been repeated doublefold with road tubeless, with the majors marketing special wheels with pointless hole-free spoke beds in fear of sealant, and this time there's only a couple tires since there's no licensing program for the patents!
Stan's is one of the only companies involved at all ends whose statements you can take at face value. WTB is pretty good about it too, while they want you to use their whole system at least it works and they don't bullshit or act coy about it.
joeball wrote:
I don't see how sealant would have helped you keep the bead from burping off. That should have been the job of the UST rim and tire design.
Just statically, sealant fills all the tiny spaces when you set it up and brings the latent air loss down near to that of a tubed tire. When you have it leaned over in a corner, it seals up any breaks as they form.
As for riding lower pressures Tim, Paul makes you look like a little guy :)
Remember that pinch flats are a thing of the past, replaced with very occasional burps when you get too rad and/or crash at low pressures. And unless you filled the tire with dirt you can fix it in a minute with the wheel on. Some tire/rim combos don't need CO2.
The setup on my 29er is 2.2/2.4 Racing Ralphs (the generation before "Tubeless Ready" where they just beefed up the bead), on Stan's Flow rims. It wasn't till I got the gauge that I realized I (at 150lbs) had been riding them down to 12/8psi with no issues including 60+ miles all around town in the snowmageddon.
I burped one for the first time last week on maybe my tenth serious dirt outing on it. I'd let too much air out using my finger instead of the slow bleed on the gauge, and been too lazy to pump it back up. The front with its 62mm casing was probably under 5psi, and I didn't hear it break until after my bar dug into the ground on a very steep and tight off-camber corner. I resealed it with half a CO2 and pumped it up to 12psi, and topped off the rear to 16psi, and had no further trouble even as the trail got more and more technical (with several more crashes).
The Stan's sealant isn't messy at all, it wipes right off and is water soluble. The only time I really interact with it is when the valves occasionally spit at me with contempt as I tap them to add air (mostly on my tubulars, and really only if I pump em up with the valve at 6 o'clock).
It's insane just how much faster and grippier your tires can get with no tubes, less pressure, and zero shits given about pinches. I'll halt the sermon here.
tehschkott
Posted: Wed May 30, 2012 2:11 am
daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
Both Paul and I are in the 230lb range. Run 20~30 psi. If you want higher PSIs, you might as well start with a tube.
Sealant isn't messy and isn't gooey. Wipes right up.
Nobody I know, have talked to, or have heard of considers dry tubeless a viable long term solution, no matter how much money they throw at it.
I'm running 3 bikes tubeless at present, all with pretty great results.
I wish you the best of luck, sincerely. Keep us appraised.
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tehschkott
Posted: Wed May 30, 2012 2:16 am
daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
Incidentally one of my three bikes running tubeless is the XO-2 that I rode to Ben Country and back - no problemo.
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jimmythefly
Posted: Wed May 30, 2012 8:53 am
Joined: 10 Jan 2007Posts: 1491
Sweet, Joe!
Not sure what cantis you have, but when the time comes for pad replacement do a bit of looking around as there are shorter pads out there that should help with your issue.
You still need a 26.8 post?
caustic meatloaf
Posted: Wed May 30, 2012 9:14 am
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
Nope, got the seatpost. Got all antsy in my pantsy and decided to just buy one. However, since I'm still in maiden voyage mode, we'll see how the current post works out - I think I'd rather prefer one with more setback, but only riding will tell. So, if you got one, depending on how things work out, I might still be interested.
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Eric the Red
Posted: Wed May 30, 2012 11:43 am
Joined: 02 May 2010Posts: 150Location: In the saddle
Have you had any experience with road tubeless, Fred? Or anyone for that matter. Speaking of lesser common wheel and tire systems, I briefly rode a set of carbon tubulars this morning and holy FUCK were they awesome. Ride quality, acceleration, everything. Amazing.
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blasdelf
Posted: Wed May 30, 2012 1:54 pm
BAD NAVIGATORJoined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 1505
Eric the Red wrote:
Have you had any experience with road tubeless, Fred?
The main wheels on my Time are road tubeless:
They're Hutchinson Atom road tubeless tires (which have a square carbon fiber bead and extra butyl lining) which actually measure 23.5mm on my rims. It's the nicest you can get easily and is cheap from xxcycle, I just bought a bunch more used off a guy recently. There's one nicer RT tire out there but it's only sold in Japan, it seems like there's regional exclusivity bullshit going on.
I have them on the Stan's Alpha 340 rims, but that's not necessary to set them up tubeless, I really just used them because they're the lightest aluminum clincher rims you can get by a big margin. You have to do a little dance sometimes but they seal up fine with a shitty floor pump.
They ride much nicer than a lot of 28mm tires, and they do well at the pressures you would use in a 28. I normally pump em up to around 85/78 but I've gone a LOT lower on a lark and not burped them, like 30psi where every little twig you run over bottoms out against the rim. Once at normal pressures on my way home from .83 I hit a deep square-edged pothole so hard I nearly went down, putting a +/- 1cm wobble in the rim and a gouge in the sidewalls of the rim and tire, but it didn't give a fuck and I rode it out fine. Still riding them with no issues after truing and filing down the nick in the brake track.
I have at least 1500 miles on my first pair, there's tons of obvious nicks and holes in the tread, but I've never flatted at all or even noticed a loss of pressure or escaped sealant.
There are definitely nicer super high end clinchers out there like the Vittoria Open Corsas, Michelin PRO Race, Continental GP4000s, etc especially now that you can get em all in at least 25mm actual, but if I rode those I'd have had a whole bunch of flats and probably ruptured a casing by now. These don't care if you ride like an asshole.
Ductape
Posted: Wed May 30, 2012 2:01 pm
Joined: 06 Mar 2010Posts: 200Location: Suburbia
Time to admit defeat.
I removed the tube from my tire yesterday to have a second go at a dry tubless system. Much to my dismay what I thought was a pinch/burp flat actually was a puncture in my brand new supermondodeluxe UST tire. With an option of either tossing a new tire in the trash, using a tube, or adding some sealant and hoping for the best, I am ready to give Stans a try.
My verdict: Dry tubeless is not reliable.
Great dialogue.. Appreciate all the input.
Tim
blasdelf
Posted: Wed May 30, 2012 3:16 pm
BAD NAVIGATORJoined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 1505
If it was small enough not to notice when you put the tube in, Stan's should seal it up no prob with a spin of the wheel.
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
jimmythefly wrote:
Sweet, Joe!
Not sure what cantis you have, but when the time comes for pad replacement do a bit of looking around as there are shorter pads out there that should help with your issue.
You still need a 26.8 post?
Ok, did a test ride, dialed in the shifting, but this seatpost is just not cutting it. Does your seatpost have greater than 0 setback? The standard XLC whatever brand sold at Recycled Cycles that I currently have is just not cutting it. I gotta push this seat back about an inch or even two. Quads are feeling a bit more work than on the Paramount.
Other than that, ride's kinda nice. The 32mm tires are more pillowy, the brakes are doing well at stopping, and I need to get into the habit of moving my hands to the drops to shift. and the Some highway one bars I have certainly encourage you to NOT just stick your hands on the brakes for a long time.
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jimmythefly
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 10:14 am
Joined: 10 Jan 2007Posts: 1491
I builded it.
Major victory was realizing that it has a 73mm shell, then also realizing I have a Ti GT bottom bracket on which neither "cup" has a shoulder, meaning I could still use it and get it perfectly centered. That's the kind of thing that would normally stop a build in its tracks, but I just kept getting lucky and ended up staying up all night Wednesday getting it finished.
tehschkott
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 10:51 am
daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
Kicks so much ass. And looks good on the internet too!
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tehschkott
Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 2:19 pm
daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
More adventures in tubeless.
True Confession: I might have made my biggest fuckup in bike wrenching ever. This is not stealth brag, this is just a fucking horrible thing I did to myself.
Sooooo I've been doing tubeless on my bikes recently right? Squirt a little latex sealant in, pressurize the tires, badda boom badda bing no more pinch flats, get some rotational weight savings, whatever. Laundry list of cool stuff that comes with it.
After successfully doing ghetto tubeless with a series of tires and rims not designed for it, I finally picked up a set of Stans Flow 29er rims and a set of Schwalbe Super Motos and did em up tubeless. No problem. Except they won't stay sealed. Ironic, now that I have wheels and tires that are designed to go tubeless, they happen to be the ones giving me the most grief. Sure they'll inflate and stay like that for a couple hours, but invariably I'll walk by later and one or both tires will be dead flat again. This has been going on off and on for a couple weeks. Is dum.
The other day I come out of work and my car tire is flat. Fuck. I break out the can of fix-a-flat for $10 and I'm on the road again - this will get me to tire center to have flat looked at properly. While I'm dumping this can of crap into my tires, lightbulb goes off.
Car tires are tubeless too. Fix-a-flat appears to be the same stuff I'm using now - it's not foam like most seem to think, it's just cut down liquid latex under pressure with some kind of gas. Why not try to use fix-a-flat to address this troublesome tubeless issue I'm having with my Super Motos? Maybe the fix-a-flat mix is a little different, works a little better, who knows. Whatever pressure in here is enough to fill a car tire, I won't even need a whole can to do a pair of tires.
So I do it. Boom - works! Smells kinda bad at first but whatever. Goes away. Have a pair of dual flats on my Pmount too so squirt a dollop into front and rear and boom, works too! Sweet. (I know I know, I just hate repairing flats and I was in experimentation mode).
1 hour later - Smell doesn't go away. Fans
3 hours later - Smell doesn't go away, might have gotten worse. Whole fucking apartment smells like hot dead cat. Move bikes to storage unit, assuming that this offgassing will cease at some point. Clean the shit out of apartment bike shop (if you've been to my house, you know what this looks like). More fans.
24 hours later - House still smells like hot dead cat, and now so does my storage unit. Fuck this. Rip tires off - one Super Moto and a pair of (tubed) nearly new Schwalbe Ultremo's. Scrub the shit out of them with dish soap. Consider this a failed and fucking retarded experiment. Clean the shit out of the house again. Floors mopped, rags thrown away. Whatever.
36 hours later - 3 rather fucking expensive tires tires still reek of hot dead cat and will effectively infect whatever closed space they happen to be in with this fucking odor. Even the Ultremos which were tubed! This FUNK has permeated the rubber at the subatomic level and is here to stay. I hang them outside from my back fence - hopefully they'll offgas and it'll wear off.
72 hours later - nope.
1 week later - nope.
I figured publicizing my stupidity and embarrassment was the only way to bring this story home.
---
Fred has since offered some helpful suggestions, none have removed the smell. Boner level 22 achieved.
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dennyt
Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 7:49 pm
rocket mechanicJoined: 02 Aug 2005Posts: 2708
Steerer tube, or transit of Venus?
Gave the Alfine 8 an oil bath after 2300 miles on the electric bike. Looks good, only a small amount of wear particles in the oil, and it rides more smoothly now. Pro Tip: $7 of synthetic ATF and a plastic bottle, and you can do this at home. No need for the $50 shimano oil bath kit. Actually I have an extra bottle of ATF if anyone wants it.
Chip McShoulder
Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 10:23 pm
dog licking ice cream coneJoined: 11 Aug 2008Posts: 3022Location: Rainbow Road
tehschkott wrote:
This FUNK has permeated the rubber at the subatomic level and is here to stay. I hang them outside from my back fence - hopefully they'll offgas and it'll wear off.
6. Why can't Fix-A-Flat® be used in bicycles, high performance, motorcycle or Z-rated tires?
Fix-A-Flat® is not intended for these type [sic] of tires.
This is maybe a little more helpful / less tautological, if you haven't already tried it:
Quote:
3. While filling my tire with Fix-A-Flat® some product got on the wheel, how can I remove it?
While the Fix-A-Flat® product is in a liquid state, it is water soluble and can be removed with a paper towel or rag or preferably, soap and water. Once it has dried Fix-A-Flat® must be removed using odorless, mineral spirits (normally available at hardware stores).
I like this also:
Quote:
8. Can Fix-A-Flat® ruin my tire?
No. Fix-A-Flat® will not cause harm to most tires when used as directed on the label. [emphasis added]
So, no, Fix-A-Flat® won't harm your tire, unless it does.
dog licking ice cream coneJoined: 11 Aug 2008Posts: 3022Location: Rainbow Road
A little more research indicates that bike tires and high performance car tires contain silicon, and most regular car tires don't. (less sure about this last fact, seems like they may contain silica (silicon dioxide), but that's a different chemical, though google doesn't seem to differentiate the two (I guess you could search for exact terms only, but meh))
So, as far as why the stuff shouldn't be used in bike tires and high performance car tires, I think maybe what happened is the naphtha dissolved the silicon in the tire. I don't have any idea what the smell is though.
This is, of course, unsubstantiated conjecture. I suggest testing it by squirting lighter fluid (contains naphtha) on the tires to see if the problem gets worse.
daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
lollin.
aaaaand this is why I love you.
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jimmythefly
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 6:54 am
Joined: 10 Jan 2007Posts: 1491
Scott, I appreciate the work you've done on this, really took one for the team. Also, thanks for the Dynamo lighting write-up and subsequent thread here.
caustic meatloaf
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 7:02 am
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
Naptha? Hardly knew ya!
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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 5:29 pm
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
I'm making the Paramount into more of a fast bike, and fashion accessorizing it. Got some 23mm tires to put on it and retire the 28s which were getting worn. I've used the Paselas for quite some time, and noticed that there are a few other options for all white tires out there now - Vittoria Zaffiro Pros are the ones I just got to try out and see how they perform.
I've used Vittoria Randonneu tires in the past on the Schwinn, but they don't come in 23s, so passed on them - for now.
Also pulled the swift off it and am gonna put that on the touring bike, and picked up a different leather saddle from Griffin that's white.
It's gonna look shiny.
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Eric the Red
Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 11:28 am
Joined: 02 May 2010Posts: 150Location: In the saddle
caustic meatloaf wrote:
I'm making the Paramount into more of a fast bike, and fashion accessorizing it. Got some 23mm tires to put on it and retire the 28s which were getting worn. I've used the Paselas for quite some time, and noticed that there are a few other options for all white tires out there now - Vittoria Zaffiro Pros are the ones I just got to try out and see how they perform.
I've used Vittoria Randonneu tires in the past on the Schwinn, but they don't come in 23s, so passed on them - for now.
Also pulled the swift off it and am gonna put that on the touring bike, and picked up a different leather saddle from Griffin that's white.
It's gonna look shiny.
Ever try tires that aren't white? To be a REAL fast bike, you should get some carbon wheeeelz
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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 2:19 pm
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
Dude, it looks totally tits now. White saddle, white handlebar tape, white head-tube, white tires, with silver for everything else.
and I got a white helmet to replace my old one (since it cracked when I wiped out).
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Bo Ttorff
Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 2:21 pm
GO SEAHAWKS!! 12 for LYFEJoined: 20 Jul 2011Posts: 3092Location: King County
seconded. bike looks hot.
Andrew_Squirrel
Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 2:28 pm
Joined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 2098Location: Greenwood
caustic meatloaf wrote:
1,000 words, 0 pictures
Eric the Red
Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 4:10 pm
Joined: 02 May 2010Posts: 150Location: In the saddle
White power
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rory
Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 9:33 am
Joined: 13 Sep 2010Posts: 158
in order to get ready for my future ass kicking in cyclocross, i went and took the fenders and rack of the nv-t. also, i put on the knobbies, and am gettin ready to get my taint handed to me this wednesday at magnuson.
it's going to be awesome, since i plan on racing cross with downtube shifters, and no cantilevers...
Dravis Bixel
Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 2:40 pm
Joined: 14 Mar 2011Posts: 982Location: Wherever you go, there you are
Ran it into a car. Thanks guy turning right without signaling!
Actually, no harm done, just wore a little skin off my arm. The bike was fine.
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derrickito
Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 5:32 pm
now with 50 percent more EVILJoined: 22 Jul 2005Posts: 10566
i moved mine into the garage today
fatasian
Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 8:12 pm
dick wang's fatherJoined: 26 Aug 2008Posts: 1707Location: devenshire
derrickito wrote:
i moved mine into the garage today
tehschkott
Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 11:07 am
daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
Finished recabling the canti brakes on the XO with the new Cowbell 3 bars. Spent most of last night fucking around using this site to get them to feel good/better.
Cool thing about the Shorty Ultimates is they can go low profile or high profile with the adjustment of a couple screws.
I've had them in the wide-profile position to squeeze as much braking force out of them as possible, but it was suggested that I may get better by going to narrow profile. I was out of things to try and gave it a shot even though it'd also mean ditching my V-brake pads for normal brake pads.
No joy. I didn't really expect it to work better but I can say I spent a couple honest hours giving it the benefit of the doubt. Went back to the old wide-profile position with v-brake pads, and on a lark raised the placement of my straddle cable hanger to something like 4~6 inches above the tire horizon just to see what would happen. To my surprise I got quite a bit more braking force out of them. It's pretty crazy high but fuckit - as long as it works better I'm game. It's a fredly fucking build anyhow - who am I going to impress with perfect flickr-fit straddle cable hanger height. DNGAF. Wrapped the bars, called it a night.
Todays ride in was pretty dope. So far, so good.
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tehschkott
Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 11:13 am
daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
Also, tuned the Paramount up. Both these bikes are going on the Tfitz wedding ride tomorrow. One for me, one for Chase.
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caustic meatloaf
Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 11:31 am
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
oooh. that's a good resource for canti tuning. I may be doing a brush-up on the long bomber with that site as a quite.
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limpyweta
Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 11:35 am
Joined: 23 Sep 2008Posts: 740Location: North Beach
These are awshm. I wonder what it'll take to add how levers relate to this. Like, is there a nice reason, past the looks, why there are 2 cable anchor sockets right next to each other in some flat bar levers?
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Rogelio
Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 12:55 pm
Joined: 31 Jul 2007Posts: 3092Location: Pos, aya, por la Corona-Alta-Madera y que no.
tehschkott wrote:
Also, tuned the Paramount up. Both these bikes are going on the Tfitz wedding ride tomorrow. One for me, one for Chase.
I finished the bar-tape job on the Cervelo and will be rolling it with some dual pivot calipers to this event.
Having a functional roadie, this signals the time for an overhaul of my canti equipped bike. I love cantis.
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tehschkott
Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 12:56 pm
daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
If you want to make us all happy, you'll tune up Nicks bike for Jess.
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Rogelio
Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 1:06 pm
Joined: 31 Jul 2007Posts: 3092Location: Pos, aya, por la Corona-Alta-Madera y que no.
tehschkott wrote:
If you want to make us all happy, you'll tune up Nicks bike for Jess.
Nick's advice on the matter "Good luck with that."
My 2¢: I'll get it done.
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tehschkott
Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 1:08 pm
daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
Someone lend us a better bike plz.
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tehschkott
Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 1:13 pm
daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
Dirty Sanchez aka FRED wrote:
tehschkott wrote:
Brake stuff
Yeah I was troubleshooting it last night, the biggest problem is that at 60mm your canti posts are way narrower than modern spec (though not quite as ridiculous as old touring bikes)
The important measurements for Scott's setup are: OP=30, OD=26, PA=56. In the manual the brakes are shown with α at 25° narrow and 67° wide, but because the posts are so close on the XO the actual values are at 5-10° wider.
As you'll quickly see Scott is pretty screwed in the narrow stance on these brakes with his premodern canti studs, with the straddle above 150mm he's proper fucked, he probably can't get low enough without hitting the fatty fender and even then they'd be bullshitty.
The wide stance likely really is better for him. A lower straddle cable will still always benefit but not by very much, since it doesn't really get into the inflection point until the straddle is well below the tire surface.
Most curiously, the situation is completely reversed with the two options from Paul (remember to bump α by 5-10°). The Neo-Retro with it's shorter arms basically has no hope of ever working at all, shit is nearly flatlining. The Paul Touring on the other hand with it's longer arms gets pretty awesome especially if you can get the straddle lower than 150mm, orders of magnitude better than any of the other options under discussion.
Bonus tip: with V-brake pads you can fuck with the washer placement to adjust α, for Scott in the wide stance he needs to minimize α and maximize it in the narrow stance
Also note that none of that stuff about the Shorty Ultimates applies at all to modern cross bikes at proper spec
With OP=40, OD=28, PA=56, α=25° the things would have rimcrushing mechanical advantage with the straddles low over a 35mm tire.
I'm glad you're on my team Fred. Cuz you'd be scary as shit if you were the enemy.
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blasdelf
Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 1:29 pm
BAD NAVIGATORJoined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 1505
caustic meatloaf wrote:
oooh. that's a good resource for canti tuning. I may be doing a brush-up on the long bomber with that site as a quite.
your vintage frame probably has the posts at least as choked up as scott's
if so, use my version of the calculator to find out just how fucked you really are
caustic meatloaf
Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 2:40 pm
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
tehschkott wrote:
Someone lend us a better bike plz.
What size? If she's tallish, I've got one folks can borrow.
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