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Andrew_Squirrel
Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 4:31 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 01 Mar 2010 Posts: 2098 Location: Greenwood

Quoted for new page:
jimmythefly wrote:
I builded it.





jimmythefly wrote:
Dia Compe XCE u-brake. Otherwise known as a centerpull, in this case on brazed-on bosses.

Honestly, kind of a PITA to deal with. Lots of friction, doesn't open as wide as a canti for tire removal. I haven't used enough of them to say if all Ubrakes are like this, or if it's just this particular one on this bike with it's cable routing.


Ah, interesting, I thought that was the big selling point of centerpulls with posts above the tire.

On a side note, it always seems like the back-side of the pads hitting the seat-stay is my limiting factor for wheel/tire removal clearance. Do modern cantilever posts vary in length to avoid this problem?
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jimmythefly
Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 4:48 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 10 Jan 2007 Posts: 1491

For no particular reason, here's what's in my saddle bag:

What I carry

The tube usually gets swapped depending on the bike, and I carry a pump elsewhere.
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jimmythefly
Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 2:03 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 10 Jan 2007 Posts: 1491

After blinding oncoming traffic for many months, I finally built a bracket so my Lyt sits right-side-up. The best, non-ugly yet functional thing I had in the basement was some old stainless fender strut material, so I made two little arms and bolted it all together.
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Andrew_Squirrel
Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 2:39 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 01 Mar 2010 Posts: 2098 Location: Greenwood

That is awesome, nice work!
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haulincolin
Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 12:07 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 25 Jul 2005 Posts: 271 Location: at work

caustic meatloaf wrote:
Awesome.

Just do you know, if you have a small drill, you could have used that with your tap bit - it will make life easier next time.


I'm dredging this up from the previous page, but I have to one-up you on the tap-in-a-drill technique because this tool is amazing:

It's an auto-reversing clutch that holds a tap. Used in a drill press, the clutch slips as necessary to prevent the high speed of the drill from simply tearing out the threads. When you pull up on it, it reverses direction.
Video: http://flic.kr/p/dsS4rQ

By the way, if anyone is interested in seeing that auto-tapper, our in-progress CNC lathe conversion, the 8' long bicycle trailer I'm building, or any of our other tools & projects, come to our open house this Saturday evening! Every shop in the building will be open, showcasing a vast array of metalworking, woodworking, painting, pottery, etc. Also, live music and beer.
https://www.facebook.com/events/446874368707296/
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derrickito
Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 6:03 pm Reply with quote
now with 50 percent more EVIL Joined: 22 Jul 2005 Posts: 10566

last february the night before the FHR my front fork pannier mounts (removable) decided to slip into my wheel seizing my fork and wheel and flying me over my bars on westlake avenue. today i finally got around to pulling the fork, slapping on a new one, and doing the ugliest quick repair job to get her rolling again. it's funny those jobs that you put off forever because you have other bikes to ride, but when you sit down to repair it and it only takes an hour or so to fix.

here's to hoping i tightened everything down right!
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Ductape
Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 11:11 am Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Mar 2010 Posts: 200 Location: Suburbia

Took pictures of it with new Christmas camera:



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Andrew_Squirrel
Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 10:25 am Reply with quote
Joined: 01 Mar 2010 Posts: 2098 Location: Greenwood

I swapped out CycleTruck bars.
Goodbye Soma Oxford black bars.
Hello Ahearne/MAP black bars.
Surprising similar bend but I really like the Ahearne/MAP bars. Still need to trim the cables. Might need slightly shorter stem.


This is the first bike I've owned with slip on Oury grips so it's been fun struggling to get them on/off and discover that rubbing alcohol is a magical temporary lubricant and makes this process much easier. Only downside is that you need to wait for the rubbing alcohol to fully evaporate before the grips start to stick well. Overall the entire bar swapping process on this setup is mindblowingly simple whereas all the drop bar bikes i've owned take hours.

Side by side comparison photos for those interested:



Also, Goth Lips:
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Ductape
Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 10:59 am Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Mar 2010 Posts: 200 Location: Suburbia

Been slowly restoring a little to "Big Red" every evening. Sunday Headset, Monday new BB bearings, Tues was seatpost and saddle, Last night it was cleaning cranks and chainrings.





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Ductape
Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 8:17 am Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Mar 2010 Posts: 200 Location: Suburbia

I thought a few of you might enjoy this. Oxalic Acid bath. This stuff really works well. A set of bars with rust in hard to reach places. I didn't want to scratch the bars scrubbing. Overnight in the bath and then flip. Followed by washing off the OA. Wax on the outside to prevent rust from returning and frame saver on the inside. I am lazy, no scrubbing, no more rust. Two teaspoons OA powder from Mclendons, five gallons water. And yes I did kick the bucket when I took the picture:



Time to flip:



Last edited by Ductape on Sun Feb 03, 2013 8:31 am; edited 1 time in total
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zuvembi
Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 10:36 am Reply with quote
Joined: 24 Jul 2005 Posts: 942 Location: Little Addis Ababa

I broke my bike.

/me sighs



Time to shop for a new frame.

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Andrew_Squirrel
Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 4:17 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 01 Mar 2010 Posts: 2098 Location: Greenwood

what frame did you break?
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zuvembi
Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 9:32 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 24 Jul 2005 Posts: 942 Location: Little Addis Ababa

Andrew_Squirrel wrote:
what frame did you break?

Surly CrossCheck - this is the third time.

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tehschkott
Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 11:25 pm Reply with quote
daywalker Joined: 09 Nov 2007 Posts: 6108 Location: Hatertown

Ductape wrote:
I thought a few of you might enjoy this. Oxalic Acid bath. This stuff really works well. A set of bars with rust in hard to reach places. I didn't want to scratch the bars scrubbing. Overnight in the bath and then flip. Followed by washing off the OA, wax on the outside to prevent rust from returning and frame saver on the inside. I am lazy, no scrubbing, no more rust. two teaspoons OA powder from Mclendons, five gallons water. And yes I did kick the bucket when I took the picture:



Time to flip:



This was great. Thanks!

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Ductape
Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 9:41 am Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Mar 2010 Posts: 200 Location: Suburbia

Hopefully not overposting but one more to share. Last year my son hit me up with a request to build a vintage Mtb with me. Jumped at the chance and although his attention has come and gone over the past 10 months it has been a great experience for us both. After months of collecting parts we are finally making actual progress. His modern rider is a Frank The Welder built Sinister Ridge so it was only natural to find an old Yeti to put together. A friend picked this up for us last June down in Oregon. Nothing over the top, a well used 94 Yeti Pro Fro with a mishmash of modern and old parts.



Spent 8 months gathering era correct parts. Way to much bling for me but the kid digs it:



Strip, followed up by a little bit of brazing in the dings:



Took the advice of .83 and sent it in to Seattle Powder coat for a makeover . Came out nice.:




Put the decals on together yesterday while we watched the Superbowl:



Time to reinstall the cable guides and put it together.
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jimmythefly
Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 9:58 am Reply with quote
Joined: 10 Jan 2007 Posts: 1491

Not oversharing at all. I love stuff like this, and winter is the time of doing stuff to bikes.

Those bars are chromed, right?
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tehschkott
Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 10:07 am Reply with quote
daywalker Joined: 09 Nov 2007 Posts: 6108 Location: Hatertown

This. Carry on.

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Ductape
Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 6:43 am Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Mar 2010 Posts: 200 Location: Suburbia

jimmythefly wrote:
Not oversharing at all. I love stuff like this, and winter is the time of doing stuff to bikes.

Those bars are chromed, right?


Nickel plated. I don't believe Tom Ritchey (or really "Mountainbikes" Gary Fisher/Charlie Kelley's company) ever had any of the very early bars chromed (although in theory like buying a custom bike now, you could order whatever you wanted). By sometime in 82 Mike Synard (Specialized) had contracted with Nitto to to make both TIG'ed and fillet brazed bars copying Toms style. Since Fisher/Kelley could get them cheaper from Specialized than what Tom was charging they started buying them from Synard. That is why you can find Nitto (to Specialized) bars etched "Mountainbikes". These bars are chromed.

Tom made two different styles of bullmoose bars in the early years. The ones above were the lesser quality of the two and you can see the lack of detail with the brazing. There is another style that looks like an early Ahead style clamp. Tom would braze a plug in the top of the fork for the bars to clamp on to. I have a set of these and the brazing is beautiful. Right now they are at Elliot bay waiting with a frame (since August) to be painted.

By 84 when Tom was no longer affiliated with "Mountainbikes" he actually changed the way he made his bars again for his nicer bikes (Team Comp/Annapurna). This time using a removable plug.

And if you read all that, Geek on...

I will try to take pics of all four types.

Edit: The bike up above is an early 1981 Everest made by Tom for "Mountainbikes" probably one of the first 500 purpose built MTB's. ever made. There are a few frames from this era Tom sold through different outlets that didn't say Mountainbikes on the decals. Much more difficult to find. And of course many early road bikes both lugged and brazed from the 70's before he got overwhelmed making MTB's.
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tehschkott
Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 1:28 pm Reply with quote
daywalker Joined: 09 Nov 2007 Posts: 6108 Location: Hatertown

http://sweetbike.org/2013/02/13/new-fork-new-geometry

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Ductape
Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 5:48 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Mar 2010 Posts: 200 Location: Suburbia

Kinda cool,

Worked out a deal with Frank the Welder to make my son a stem for the Yeti. (Mainly I had some old Tandem cranks he needed for a vintage project that he was working on).

Frank was one of the original welders for John Parker of Yeti fame going back to even before they were called Yeti to when they were still Sweet Heart Cycles.

Chances are if you have an old Yeti, Frank made it. After Yeti, Frank went on to build bikes for Spooky, Sinister and several others custom shops.

I asked Frank to make me a stem like he created for the Yeti race team in the early 90's (Tomac, Futardo etc..). Funky like Yeti's, 20 years later, this stem has a bit of a cult following.

Talking to Frank he let me know that when he made the stems for the racers bitd. He would write the size on the side of the stem with welders crayon and then just clear coat them. This way when Parkers mechanics got the stems, they could easily tell whose bike it was made for. If you look at the old pics from the time you can see this. Although most of Tomacs pics have him riding a drop bar setup at this time.

Frank also let me know that when most people restore these old race Yeti's they get overzealous and powder the stem to match the bike. Well as much as I wanted to leave the stem as Frank suggested with 135 on the side and clear coated , my son was pretty adamant about the stem matching the fork so off to the powder coater it went.

Franks blog with pics of the stem being made here:

http://www.frankthewelder.com/?p=678

And just back from getting powder:



A few years too old (or way new) for the project but too cool not to use.
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Ductape
Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 3:27 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Mar 2010 Posts: 200 Location: Suburbia

That point where there is still a lot to do but you get the idea how it will look.

Shiman-no:

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ripper
Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 3:44 pm Reply with quote
evilmike Joined: 19 Apr 2006 Posts: 640 Location: Capitalist Hill

Ductape wrote:
That point where there is still a lot to do but you get the idea how it will look.

Shiman-no:



Unnfff. Damn.

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tehschkott
Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 3:51 pm Reply with quote
daywalker Joined: 09 Nov 2007 Posts: 6108 Location: Hatertown

woah - yeah that

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Ductape
Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 1:15 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Mar 2010 Posts: 200 Location: Suburbia

Wired:



98% there. Tired of working on it. The rest can wait for now.



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Ductape
Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 10:22 am Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Mar 2010 Posts: 200 Location: Suburbia

And one more.

Been working on this for a few years but needed to finish it up before a vintage race next month. The Yeti is cool and was a great father son project but it doesn't sing to me. This bike here on the other hand makes me daydream and giddy inside.

Cut a few corners because of time but I will change that after the ride. To the best of my knowledge only thing to change; Wheels should be allen head instead of QR's, End caps should be plugs not caps, Jaguar shift housing, still need brass ferrules on the top tube (found some aluminum ones I made fit from the computer store). Those pedals didn't come out until 82.

Always wanted an early Ritchey Everest, for a long time this was my grail bike. Clean build no bling just 30 years of gentle patina:





Plenty of close ups here:

http://s417.photobucket.com/albums/pp255/Aemmer/Ritchey%20Everest%201981/

And I swear those tubes shifted in the tire overnight. Driving me crazy not having straight valves.

Thats it from me for a while.

Cheers,
T
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tehschkott
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 9:21 am Reply with quote
daywalker Joined: 09 Nov 2007 Posts: 6108 Location: Hatertown

Too much overlap to simply dremel off the brake.

Untitled by tehschkott, on Flickr

Goodbye posts

Untitled by tehschkott, on Flickr

Artisnal cockpit shot. 11s Campy Chorus on Cowbell III bars.

Untitled by tehschkott, on Flickr

Plan is 11/9s Shimegro. Coming together. These shifters look awesome with these bars, and I like the hood shape like woah.

Untitled by tehschkott, on Flickr



Untitled by tehschkott, on Flickr

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limpyweta
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 11:49 am Reply with quote
Joined: 23 Sep 2008 Posts: 740 Location: North Beach

Maybe a couple folks would've gladly setup a decent canti system, or get some alternative, for free, to keep you from doing that. Your Bridgestone work was awshm, btw.

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tehschkott
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 12:09 pm Reply with quote
daywalker Joined: 09 Nov 2007 Posts: 6108 Location: Hatertown

The canti-posts were too narrow anyhow. Since there's other frame work on this that needs doing too, I'll have properly spaced posts put on at that point. In the interim I'm using these long-reach calipers with V-brake pads - a combination that works very well on Grumpy.

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tehschkott
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 12:14 pm Reply with quote
daywalker Joined: 09 Nov 2007 Posts: 6108 Location: Hatertown

Incidentally I scored those 11s Campy shakes at the bike swap for $150. Boosh.

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ripper
Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 11:13 am Reply with quote
evilmike Joined: 19 Apr 2006 Posts: 640 Location: Capitalist Hill

Made the 650bRoller into a 1x9. Ready for spring!



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jeff
Posted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 8:36 am Reply with quote
SOC pussy Joined: 05 May 2006 Posts: 4501

Purchased a piece of my youth.

Who wants to go watch some races at Seatac BMX this Spring?

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jimmythefly
Posted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 8:46 am Reply with quote
Joined: 10 Jan 2007 Posts: 1491

Hot. Please tell me you rode a Brooks in your youth.

And I would totally go to a BMX race, for sure. Would be a nice afternoon ride/event, ya?
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jeff
Posted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 8:50 am Reply with quote
SOC pussy Joined: 05 May 2006 Posts: 4501

jimmythefly wrote:
Hot. Please tell me you rode a Brooks in your youth.

And I would totally go to a BMX race, for sure. Would be a nice afternoon ride/event, ya?


Jimmy, that Brooks is the only thing NOT stock on that bike.

I'm planning on going down this Saturday. I'll pm with details later this week.
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Chip McShoulder
Posted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 9:41 am Reply with quote
dog licking ice cream cone Joined: 11 Aug 2008 Posts: 3022 Location: Rainbow Road

Are we just going to let Jeff enjoy something nice that he bought for himself?

Hurry, someone derail this thread!

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joeball
Posted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 9:56 am Reply with quote
Joined: 24 Jul 2005 Posts: 6037 Location: Ether

So this happened.

Soma Analog
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Andrew_Squirrel
Posted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 10:27 am Reply with quote
Joined: 01 Mar 2010 Posts: 2098 Location: Greenwood

This page is looking good!
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Ductape
Posted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 11:26 am Reply with quote
Joined: 06 Mar 2010 Posts: 200 Location: Suburbia

joeball wrote:
So this happened.

Soma Analog


Thats cool!

Can you reach the brakes from the drops? Big hands.


Last edited by Ductape on Mon Apr 08, 2013 12:02 pm; edited 1 time in total
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joeball
Posted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 11:53 am Reply with quote
Joined: 24 Jul 2005 Posts: 6037 Location: Ether

I don't have particularly large hands for 6' human being.

I originally had the brake levers further down towards the bend in the drops but the tube diameter/profile wasn't consistent there so I had to move them up closer to the flats so that I could clamp them tight. This higher position makes riding on the woods a little more feasible though.

I've only ridden it around the neighborhood thus far. I scootched the seat forward a tad and rotated the bars up some. Longer rides will tell me more about the fit.
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Bo Ttorff
Posted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 3:47 pm Reply with quote
GO SEAHAWKS!! 12 for LYFE Joined: 20 Jul 2011 Posts: 3092 Location: King County

WP_002179

Finished building my 19.83 Trek 610 fixed conversion. Track dropouts welded on by Garth. Red powder coat done (with 3 day turn around) by Thomas at bombus bikes.

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tehschkott
Posted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 4:53 pm Reply with quote
daywalker Joined: 09 Nov 2007 Posts: 6108 Location: Hatertown

Pulled from my blog: http://sweetbike.org/2013/04/03/time-to-build-a-rack

I threw an infinite setback seatpost from an 80's mountain bike on and put a B-17 on the Voyageur.  The B-17 does not set as far back as most modern saddles - relying instead on a slacker STA.



Well this has a slack STA but it's still not enough.  Using a 130mm stem I'm still at 52mm of setback which is pretty insane.  With the low bottom bracket the overall fit of the bike it's practically French-fit.  (That's about half the amount of seatpost I'm accustomed to).  But a short top tube, a long torso, and short reach handlebars like the Cowbells I prefer are what they are - so here I am.





Alas here we are and I'm learning more about saddle fit than I expected.  For example I didn't really appreciate that the saddle works on an arc.  I can move the saddle backwards but I have to lower the seatpost to maintain reach, or I can move the saddle forward but that requires raising the seatpost. I guess I knew this already if I thought about it - I just never thought about it before.

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