Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
jeff wrote:
Started replacing the axle in my rear wheel. Went to thread the cones on and they we're not threading on, but all the other pieces threaded on smooth as butter.
Put axle in vice and proceed to force thread the cones on. Cones now stuck on completely fucked new axle.
I am now forced to walk into bike shop with bag of miscellaneous parts and stripped, useless new axle 24 hours later.
I know better than this, but still tried to use might to force a situation that was not right.
Am I the only fucking idiot to ever do this?
nope. my old 7400 crankset now has one with stripped threads on the crank hole, because instead of wondering 'hmm. why is this so hard to get off with my crankpuller?', I instead decided to put my crankpuller arm inside a pipe and proceed to strip the fuck out of the top couple threads. Turns out I forgot to pull out a washer after removing the crank bolt.
_________________ HIS NAME IS EDMUND
joeball
Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 2:01 pm
Joined: 24 Jul 2005Posts: 6037Location: Ether
Took the Hetre and Fenders off the rSogn, mounted up the new Schwalbe Thunder Burt tires (650Bx21.") Measured as ~51mm wide casing freshly mounted on Velocity Synergy rims. Tires rolled great on pavement, bike looks hot but I should probably put the Hetres back on for pavement.
Andrew_Squirrel
Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 2:48 pm
Joined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 2098Location: Greenwood
They were certainly fast rolling on Saturday morning! Joeball was flying!
TorreyK
Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 2:57 pm
Joined: 02 Sep 2009Posts: 1116Location: White Center/Burien
Ordered new external cup bottom bracket, and overhauled the cups for the meantime using a little guide found here:
So if I'm creaking and clicking and the bike is sounding generally annoying, just know that I tried my best.
Contrary to the "service guide", I pulled the cups, flushed them with 90% IPA, some sacrificial WD-40 and a lot of compressed air, before repacking the bearings. This was mostly just a learning experience in BB dis/re-assembly, but much fun was had.
_________________ Time to go.
Charcharodon Megladon
Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 8:37 am
Joined: 01 Apr 2009Posts: 620Location: Eastlake
TorreyK wrote:
Ordered new external cup bottom bracket, and overhauled the cups for the meantime using a little guide found here:
So if I'm creaking and clicking and the bike is sounding generally annoying, just know that I tried my best.
Contrary to the "service guide", I pulled the cups, flushed them with 90% IPA, some sacrificial WD-40 and a lot of compressed air, before repacking the bearings. This was mostly just a learning experience in BB dis/re-assembly, but much fun was had.
I'll have to try removing the caps like that from the opposite side. I totally broke one of those last time I removed my cranks. He's not lying about the plastic being extremely brittle. The reinsertion is a pain as well. Much fun was not had that day.
Jessica
Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 12:21 am
Joined: 18 Sep 2007Posts: 309Location: Capitol Hill
BC9 prep:
wiped down dirty rims and brake pads
inspected tires for any cuts or embedded junk
replaced worn rear brake pads
installed a less worn rear derailluer
wiped down dirty chain
made sure all screws are tight
Tomorrow:
fresh zip-ties on the trunk bag/support rack situation
_________________ ⊠âŠ
tehschkott
Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 2:57 pm
daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
I love your sig line Jessica. That's from our shenanigans on Bainbridge yes?
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Jessica
Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 10:21 pm
Joined: 18 Sep 2007Posts: 309Location: Capitol Hill
tehschkott wrote:
I love your sig line Jessica. That's from our shenanigans on Bainbridge yes?
Yeah, BPD if I'm not mistaken.
_________________ ⊠âŠ
tehschkott
Posted: Fri May 02, 2014 10:37 pm
daywalkerJoined: 09 Nov 2007Posts: 6108Location: Hatertown
our motto: To Serve and Profane
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Ductape
Posted: Mon May 19, 2014 11:13 pm
Joined: 06 Mar 2010Posts: 200Location: Suburbia
I cold set the rear triangle today.
jimmythefly
Posted: Tue May 20, 2014 10:06 am
Joined: 10 Jan 2007Posts: 1491
I like.
What's the story on the BB adapter? I know there are modern versions, but what did they use back-in-the-day? Was there an off the shelf solution or did they fab up their own?
caustic meatloaf
Posted: Tue May 20, 2014 4:21 pm
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
Not what I did to my bike, but what I *will* do to my truck. Purchased 3 lockable bike fork hitches that I shall be bolting into the front wall of the truck bed, for vertically placing bikes for travel.
_________________ HIS NAME IS EDMUND
Ductape
Posted: Tue May 20, 2014 7:10 pm
Joined: 06 Mar 2010Posts: 200Location: Suburbia
jimmythefly wrote:
I like.
What's the story on the BB adapter? I know there are modern versions, but what did they use back-in-the-day? Was there an off the shelf solution or did they fab up their own?
By the late 70's there were a few options to convert from one piece to three piece cranks. The style on there now mimics what Bullseye was doing and it worked good and hasn't changed much over the years. When the old Bullseye's show up on ebay they are stupid expensive.
Trying to put this bike together in the true spirit of a pre 80's build so changed it today to a YST BB that mimics what Cook Bros. were doing at the time. The CBR's sell for silly money also but the new YST's look the part of the old CBR's pretty good for about 1/5 the price and I won't have to find an old euro BB. Besides, who looks that close at BB's. I think this system is inferior to the Bullseye style. The spacers are held on with tiny allan head bolts that come loose and eventually strip.
Outside of the BB, the Snakebellies are probably more 81ish vintage, but it's pretty tough to find old rubber that looks good. Ideally I will find a couple of 2.125 Uniroyal Nobbies to put on there. Everything else should be pre 80.
Last night I was trying to persuade some old Tomaselli motorcycle levers onto the bend too far of those bars and snapped the mount. Bummer, They were obnoxiously huge. Going with the Magura's now.
Last big hurdle will be welding a derailleur hangar to the frame. Put on an old clamp on style today but it looks like a nightmare to keep in one place and there is enough mess already going on between the rear dropouts.
TA cranks and rings, KKT Rat Traps, Cyclone derailleurs, Magura grips, a lot of persuasive love and hopefully it will be done.
jimmythefly
Posted: Wed May 21, 2014 10:35 am
Joined: 10 Jan 2007Posts: 1491
Ductape wrote:
I think this system is inferior to the Bullseye style. The spacers are held on with tiny allan head bolts that come loose and eventually strip.
Swapped tires and handlebar grips on the 90s MTB. Next: chain needs replaced and pie plate needs removed.
Bo Ttorff
Posted: Sat May 31, 2014 10:28 am
GO SEAHAWKS!! 12 for LYFEJoined: 20 Jul 2011Posts: 3092Location: King County
Elisa's bike. New cockpit, switched out bars and brakes. Some Nitto townie type bars, Cardiff ergo leather grips (oiled with filson leather oil, sealed with Bro Ttorff wax.) Also, new pasela's and longboard fenders added. Obviously I am more excited about her new setup than she is.
_________________ -housed white guy
caustic meatloaf
Posted: Sat May 31, 2014 7:46 pm
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
That bike looks pretty cool with the new cockpit. Heh. cock.
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Dravis Bixel
Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 12:34 pm
Joined: 14 Mar 2011Posts: 982Location: Wherever you go, there you are
Just did a complete overhaul of my bike. Took it down to the frame. I left the fork on because I just replaced the headset a few months back. I also left the brakes and the seat.
I removed and cleaned the old crank arms and derailer. I could reuse those. When I got that all apart I started feeling a wobble in the bottom bracket. I took that out. The non-drive side bearings felt good. The drive side though felt like it was rolling in sand. Time to go. Also the chain and cassette were shot. The chainring was all shark teeth. So those were replaced. I had also worn the sidewall out of my rims. I guess I need to clean them more often when it rains. Here is the full list of replacement parts:
- New bottom bracket
- New pedals
- New wheels
- New tires
- New brake shoes and pads
- New cassette
- New chainring
- New chain
- New cables & housing
I gave it a good wash while I had it apart. I put it back together and re-wrapped the bars. It is nice to have it looking shiny again. I forgot what it was like to have a bike that shifts smoothly and doesn't grind all the time.
_________________ I lie frequently, and often.
langston
Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 7:26 pm
Joined: 25 Jul 2005Posts: 5547Location: Columbia City
no pictures because the ones I took don't do justice, but I swapped out the rubber brake hoods on my brifters to some new ones I bought from http://www.odigrips.com/ . They had not just my older Campy shifter hoods but in my choice of colors & texture. I chose the soft ones in black, because fuck you the only correct choice of color is always black. ++ would recommend, and when in my order under the Special Instructions I invited them out for a bike ride with us, they tossed in a sweet beer coozy with my order, gratis.
I used a dab of rubbing alcohol as an installation aid as per the instructions but they went on tight enough I don't think I'll need to use a blowdryer. Long story short, are your shifterhoods torn or otherwise worn the fuck out? Buy new ones, they're relatively ($25) cheap and are good quality. Talk to me in a 1000 miles for wear reviews.
_________________ riders wanted for hazardous journey. Small wages, bitter cold, long months of complete darkness, constant danger, safe return doubtful. Honour and recognition in case of success.
Heavy Duty Light Cabling:
Schmidt Co-Axial 55cm wire to connect Luxos to SON dynamo hub, part # SCH55CM48-3
Schmidt Co-Axial 190cm wire to connect Luxos to taillight, connectors at both ends, part # SCH72080
You listed a bunch of Rohloff shifters that mount next to the stem on drop bars. I personally find this shifter position really uncomfortable, you should try it before going that way. Having the shifter at the barend position is a lot more comfortable because you don't have to rotate your wrist when moving down to the shifter from the brake lever.
I've been riding Rohloff-equipped bikes for about 8 years and have a homebuilt adventure rando bike that has a Rohloff on it. If you want to PM me we can arrange a time for you to try it if you like, it might influence your component choices.
Do you know what your frame geometry will be?
I'd hate to say it publically, but I haven't been super impressed with the Bombus frames that I've seen.
caustic meatloaf
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 9:11 am
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
And just my .02, but if you are willing to spend the money for Arkel panniers, take a peek at Swift panniers. Support your local business yo! I've got a pair and they're fucking awesome, AND you can customize them when you order.
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Bo Ttorff
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 9:21 am
GO SEAHAWKS!! 12 for LYFEJoined: 20 Jul 2011Posts: 3092Location: King County
What did you do to your bike today?
Chester wrote:
a list
_________________ -housed white guy
Andrew_Squirrel
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 9:39 am
Joined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 2098Location: Greenwood
caustic meatloaf wrote:
And just my .02, but if you are willing to spend the money for Arkel panniers, take a peek at Swift panniers. Support your local business yo! I've got a pair and they're fucking awesome, AND you can customize them when you order.
Also, Swift stocks Arkel hook hardware which enables you to have the best of both worlds.
jeff
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 9:42 am
SOC pussyJoined: 05 May 2006Posts: 4501
I trued my rear wheel last night for the millionth time. Seriously, what gives? One or two spokes consistently come loose and the wheel goes out of true about every 8 days. Am I doing it wrong?
caustic meatloaf
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 9:44 am
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
Andrew_Squirrel wrote:
caustic meatloaf wrote:
And just my .02, but if you are willing to spend the money for Arkel panniers, take a peek at Swift panniers. Support your local business yo! I've got a pair and they're fucking awesome, AND you can customize them when you order.
Also, Swift stocks Arkel hook hardware which enables you to have the best of both worlds.
The Swift Short Stacks are 46L, and a pair with arkel hardware, shoulder straps, AND if you choose the waxed canvas option come in at $393 plus tax, which is about the same price as a pair of Arkel panniers plus shipping.
BUT, you get to customize the colors to your liking with Swift!
_________________ HIS NAME IS EDMUND
Windsphere
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 9:55 am
nowhere near as perfect as Bo TtorffJoined: 28 Jul 2013Posts: 226Location: Seattle
Alex wrote:
You listed a bunch of Rohloff shifters that mount next to the stem on drop bars. I personally find this shifter position really uncomfortable, you should try it before going that way. Having the shifter at the barend position is a lot more comfortable because you don't have to rotate your wrist when moving down to the shifter from the brake lever.
I've been riding Rohloff-equipped bikes for about 8 years and have a homebuilt adventure rando bike that has a Rohloff on it. If you want to PM me we can arrange a time for you to try it if you like, it might influence your component choices.
Do you know what your frame geometry will be?
I'd hate to say it publically, but I haven't been super impressed with the Bombus frames that I've seen.
Thanks I will PM you.
I am using the Vaya geometry.
Windsphere
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 9:58 am
nowhere near as perfect as Bo TtorffJoined: 28 Jul 2013Posts: 226Location: Seattle
caustic meatloaf wrote:
Andrew_Squirrel wrote:
caustic meatloaf wrote:
And just my .02, but if you are willing to spend the money for Arkel panniers, take a peek at Swift panniers. Support your local business yo! I've got a pair and they're fucking awesome, AND you can customize them when you order.
Also, Swift stocks Arkel hook hardware which enables you to have the best of both worlds.
The Swift Short Stacks are 46L, and a pair with arkel hardware, shoulder straps, AND if you choose the waxed canvas option come in at $393 plus tax, which is about the same price as a pair of Arkel panniers plus shipping.
BUT, you get to customize the colors to your liking with Swift!
Thanks for the feed back and I will look into the Swift panniers.
Windsphere
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 10:30 am
nowhere near as perfect as Bo TtorffJoined: 28 Jul 2013Posts: 226Location: Seattle
Bo Ttorff wrote:
What did you do to your bike today?
Chester wrote:
a list
A list would be a lot easier if we were a communist country. We would only have one shitty part to choose from. I really want to buy the right parts from the beginning so I am not wasting resources.
Thanks to everyone who gives me feedback.
blasdelf
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 4:15 pm
BAD NAVIGATORJoined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 1505
Windsphere wrote:
I really want to buy the right parts from the beginning so I am not wasting resources.
then definitely don't get a belt drive
changing the ratio at all involves buying all three $$$ parts again
(and they also turn out to be hateful outside of a designer magazine rendering)
get a Hebie Chainglider if you wanna keep your shit clean
limpyweta
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 5:26 pm
Joined: 23 Sep 2008Posts: 740Location: North Beach
A Chainglider with a perfectly straight chainline, and a rivet/masterlink width no wider than 9mm, avoids the feeling of riding in sand. Their sideplate height allowance I'm guessing is also important. I don't know they ever pay for themselves, especially when they're so easy to take off, only like one shop in town sells them, and it's easy ebay money.
That being stated, using a KMC INOX stainless steel chain, I did like 2400 miles on a chain with a full vinyl dutch bike chaincase without having to lube it ever, and I was using Triflow at the time. I could check the chain's elongation, but I used the chain, exposed to the weather, with a stainless 1/8" chainring and a stainless 1/8" sprocket for that mileage plus a prior ~700 miles.
_________________ Alec
blasdelf
Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 12:05 pm
BAD NAVIGATORJoined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 1505
Cleaned the fuck out of my MTB, switched from SRAM to Shimano and replaced Stan's Flows with Light Bicycle Crabon:
Almost completely rebuilt
The dangler+shifter have been sitting all winter, and I got the rims+spokes almost a year and a half ago without getting around to it. Really wish I hadn't let projects pile up!
Also realized that with my collection of flat alt-bars I was going to less and less sweep and tilting them up a bit, basically ending up with a riser bar — so I gave up on the nerd shit and went mainstream:
Glued the Renthal kevlar grips with Continental Rim Cement, it was messy. I trimmed the mushroom on the right side for the long-levered Saint shifter (attached to the brake clamp with i-spec). The action on the shifter is extraordinary, even compared to XT Dynasys.
Also mounted a spare HBC 32t 94bcd Singlespeed ring, it's not narrow/wide but it holds onto the chain a lot more than the old worn one. With the dialed-up clutch friction and the stronger spring position of the short cage, I should be able to go without a guide.
axel
Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 12:09 pm
Joined: 15 Feb 2013Posts: 1654Location: St Johns PDX
that kickstand is baller. actually, this entire rig is pretty awesome.
nice stuff Fred.
_________________ fat rob.
Ductape
Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 8:20 pm
Joined: 06 Mar 2010Posts: 200Location: Suburbia
Looks really nice. Will you cut down the fork since you went with riser bars?
blasdelf
Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 11:06 am
BAD NAVIGATORJoined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 1505
Maybe, I still have a bunch more bars to experiment with
donavanm
Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 3:19 am
Joined: 14 Jun 2012Posts: 1342
Finished cleaning up an 1992 XO-2:
Stripped it down to the frame, cleaned every part. Framesaver'd, new bearings & grease, cables, housing, tubes, 26x2" tires, and bar tape. Cleaned up the wheels; put a little linseed on the nipples and tried to get some tension on the spokes. Felt like a couple niples had seized, thats a bummer.
This is going to be a blast on the dirt. Two inch tires roll over everything, feels very sure footed. Still has room for fenders too! 3x7 drive train shifts surprisingly well, and enough range to just spin up my hill. Nice randonneur style bars with the rise on the flats, though Id go for more flare personally. I ended up throwing a cage and old blackburn rack on after the picture.
I dunno about y'all, but Id ride this one hard.
TorreyK
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 6:33 pm
Joined: 02 Sep 2009Posts: 1116Location: White Center/Burien
Pictures to come, but today I finished up a new cyclocross racer/disc road bike in the off season. 2014 All City Macho King reynolds 853 tubing.
components of note:
shimano cx70 crankset
velocity a23 rims laced to disc sram x9 hubs
gevenalle (retroshift) shifters.
TRP spyre brakes
gevenalle BURD rear derailleur (upgraded spring and pulleys are nice, tres beefy)
running a 2x9 drivetrain but with 10 speed chain/chainrings. i don't need more gears...it seemed like a good idea at the time and prior to shifter ordering, I had a brand new 9 speed ultegra cassette and didn't want it to go to waste.
upon first ride, the bike is very nice. as expected the brake levers (standard tektros are bulky and uncomfortable and the shifting takes time to get used to, but the shifting action is very firm/crisp, which is nice for cross.
_________________ Time to go.
caustic meatloaf
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 6:46 pm
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
I should build up a new ride. I've had this Raleigh frame for about 3 years.
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GO SEAHAWKS!! 12 for LYFE
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nowhere near as perfect as Bo Ttorff
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