Grumpy GreebJoined: 20 Aug 2005Posts: 5329Location: flavor country
halp, my front end shimmies like hell when i slow to a stop while i'm applying my front brake. i thought replacing the old worn out wheel would help. nope.
surly long haul fork, the nice shimano cantis, shimano aero levers, and brand new wheels.
any idears?
ripper
Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 8:56 am
evilmikeJoined: 19 Apr 2006Posts: 640Location: Capitalist Hill
Check the toe-in on your brake shoes? Usually adjusting/replacing the shoes made the brake judder go away on my Novara and Kogswell. Tighten all the bolts, too.
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jimmythefly
Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 9:17 am
Joined: 10 Jan 2007Posts: 1491
Headset tight? Is your cable hanger from the stem/headset, or mounted to the fork crown?
caustic meatloaf
Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 9:34 am
Joined: 06 Dec 2010Posts: 1235537Location: a hammy melange...
If you replaced your wheel and that didn't fix it, I'd look to the headset as the culprit. Wobble of Death ain't nothing ta fuck with.
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joeball
Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 9:43 am
Joined: 24 Jul 2005Posts: 6037Location: Ether
jimmythefly wrote:
Headset tight? Is your cable hanger from the stem/headset, or mounted to the fork crown?
Yeah, I'd check for headset play first. Also chek for how much play the brake calipers have on the canti studs.
dennyt
Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 10:12 am
rocket mechanicJoined: 02 Aug 2005Posts: 2708
Try different brake pads. If they're sticking/slipping, that will resonate the flexy fork blades.
the dreaded ben
Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 12:02 pm
Grumpy GreebJoined: 20 Aug 2005Posts: 5329Location: flavor country
thanks for the suggestions.
headset is tight.
cable hanger mounted up top in the stack.
i'll prolly play with brake alignment a bit more and if that doesn't work i'll replace the pads.
any ideas on taking some play out between the brake and canti studs?
although i think denny is right, the fork blades are flexy as all get out.
joeball
Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 1:04 pm
Joined: 24 Jul 2005Posts: 6037Location: Ether
Flex isn't high up in the LHT's vocabulary.
Give the pad alignment another look. If that is the root problem it'll resonate through out the other components.
I'm not sure how you could take any play out of the canti since essentially you need a longer canti post or shorter brake. I don't know how you would add a shim where it needs to be either. Just putting a washer in front or behind won't work.
limpyweta
Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 1:36 pm
Joined: 23 Sep 2008Posts: 740Location: North Beach
the dreaded ben wrote:
cable hanger mounted up top in the stack.
How much bare cable do you have? I've seen your bikes with lots of headtube, so:
Mini-Vs work okay if you have small tires or no fenders. They kind of suck on any tires over about 30mm with fenders, and are a no go with 35s and fenders. You can do tricks like running the cable under the fender (instead of over), but it makes your braking suck pretty fast.
I'm running full size V's and the Tektro drop-bar V-brake levers on my newest bike and it works pretty well. The Tektro levers aren't as comfortable as their regular ones though, and of course you can't do Ergo or STI with this setup. I chose it on this bike for the same reason that I ran 26" tires -- it's a travel bike and it gets me the easiest replacement option for parts (plus V-brakes don't stick out, making packing a little easier).
Long head tubes and forks with flexy steerers run into the issue that Ben is encountering. It happens when the brake pulls the steerer into a curve, then the steerer's spring force becomes higher than the braking force and it releases, then it all happens again. The crown mounted hanger should help that. It took me a long time to understand what was going on when I first encountered this.
tom
Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 3:10 pm
Joined: 14 Aug 2007Posts: 57Location: cap hill
28c front 32c rear with fenders. but yeah, when I put knobbies on I have to take the full fenders off and just throw a clip-on on the back and eat dirt.
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Grumpy Greeb
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