The front canti post on one of my steel touring bikes snapped off. You know, "just riding along". 700c wheel, threaded steerer.
Please advise. My options as I see them in the order that seems to make sense are:
1) Have a new one welded on locally
2) Send to the original builder in California to do the repair (I'm not the original owner, so I'd expect that the builder would charge for the repair.)
3) Buy replacement fork from original builder (pricey)
If the recommendation is to get the repair done locally, who should I go to and what should I expect it to cost? I don't care about the paint, I'd probably just hand paint it for now and let it be ugly.
Thanks.
jimmythefly
Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 8:39 pm
Joined: 10 Jan 2007Posts: 1491
4) Buy replacement fork from someone else (Surly or nicer).
The first thing I'd do is contact the builder and see if #3 isn't actually available free of charge.
Also, I don't know about these things exactly, but perhaps it can be drilled out, then tapped to accept a removable post?
limpyweta
Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 8:41 pm
Joined: 23 Sep 2008Posts: 740Location: North Beach
evilmikeJoined: 19 Apr 2006Posts: 640Location: Capitalist Hill
When Rodriguez brazed the posts on to my Steamroller, I think it was $50/wheel. Not sure what Colin would charge.
I have a 1" threaded cross check fork, with a looooong steerer. If the a-c is right, I'd be willing to part with for less than any other solutions.
_________________ Some of us like things. Some of us are just joyless, bitter assholes.
Alex
Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 10:54 am
Joined: 18 May 2006Posts: 3128Location: Roosevelt
alec: brake boosters still mount to the canti studs, they don't replace them. They just prevent the seatstays or fork blades from bowing out under heavy braking load. You can see the seatstays bow out on most reasonably built steel frames just by pulling on the brake lever as hard as possible.
Most brazed on steel canti studs don't really have the meet to be drilled out with a threaded 8mm hole for a replacable stud. There are replaceable studs that use an M6 thread, but I really don't recommend them. They tend to come loose at the wrong times.
I emailed you MikeOD about this particular bike.
MikeOD
Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 1:08 pm
Joined: 04 Feb 2006Posts: 545
Thanks for the input everyone. I had considered a replacement fork such as the LHT, but the lowrider braze-on positioning is different on this fork and wouldn't match up with the rack. This would mean P-clamps or a new rack, not ideal.
It looks like Alex is going to handle the repair, thanks Alex.
blasdelf
Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 2:21 am
BAD NAVIGATORJoined: 01 Mar 2010Posts: 1505
you could also pm the builder, as he's a member of this very forum
All times are GMT - 8 Hours
The time now is Fri Aug 11, 2023 6:08 pm
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
Joined: 04 Feb 2006
Posts: 545
Joined: 10 Jan 2007
Posts: 1491
Joined: 23 Sep 2008
Posts: 740
Location: North Beach
evilmike
Joined: 19 Apr 2006
Posts: 640
Location: Capitalist Hill
Joined: 18 May 2006
Posts: 3128
Location: Roosevelt
BAD NAVIGATOR
Joined: 01 Mar 2010
Posts: 1505
